03/01/00

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March 1, 2000

Did the usual drive around this morning jonesin' for surf. It was glassy everywhere and no one was around. The Aves were flat, beach was working but closing, Point was knee to occasionally waist high and a slight swell was clearly coming in but was closing out. South side was tempting but no go with the unfavorable tide. There must be surf somewhere.

Drove to tunces, parked the vehicle with the engine running and walked over the hill to check_it_out. Holy Toledo Batman . . . I couldn't believe my, er, eyes. In front of me, in the distance was a multiwave head high set pealing off one, two, three super_clean. No one out, no cars around, no wind and slick glass ocean.

Foop, foop, foop, foop . . . nothing but the sound of my running feet back to the truck to change into my gear. Glass? Head high? No one out? He, he. An unadvertised Dr. Surf special. Had checked one of the surf lines early this AM and everything was lake flat last night. I had gone looking with zero expectations and apparently bowled a strike.

Got dressed and out there in record time with a few chest highs going by while I paddled out. So, here we were, sunny morning, not a ripple on the water and I'm pumped. Please send a set, Lord. And I wait. Wait some more. Nothing. Then a few small sets go through and I catch a few to warm up. More waiting. A chest high comes but I'm too far into the closeout section so I let it go. More waiting.

Then something occurs to me: maybe what I saw from the beach was the set of the day and it's only 9:00 AM! Bad thought. After a short time a few sets go by and a slow session picks up steam. Eventually a few boards materialize around me and we wait out the small stuff.

During the 2 hour session caught a few shoulder sets but mostly it was thigh to waist high. Still, what an incredibly beautiful morning to be alive. A nice quiet time out on the water sharing what there was with a few others who understand that sometimes there is surf when all the available intel strongly suggests otherwise.

Well, time to go home and write up this session so it won't fade into oblivion in the mist that passes for a mind these days.

This page last updated: Friday, June 13, 2003

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