Just who is the author of this article
anyway? Is he the sea kayaker morphed into a suffer who occasionally
graces these pages with stories printed out of sheer pity by the editor
or is he something else? Something far less? Read on for the sordid
details...
Besides being nearly 7 feet tall and weighing 110 pounds, I've had
two cameo appearances in television commercials (partially and fully
clothed) which should help you pick me out of a crowd. Remember the shot
on the beach of the shirtless guy doing left, then right handed curls
with matching 50 lb. dumbbells? That was me. The other commercial shows
the guy with a mustache (fake) delivering coffee and doughnuts on the
beach while a healthy lass coos "he's cool!" That was also me,
fully clothed. Meeting me can be something else. I recall Bill, myself
and a third person having a conversation last year when Bill offered
"Do you know Ray Farnum?" "(enthusiastically) No I don't
but I've heard of him." "Well, (gesturing toward me) this is
Ray." "oh. I see. So Bill, where were we?" Just look for
the Zonker Harris tan and the air of excitement and you've found the
kayaklng equivalent of watching both the Republican and Democratic
convention infomercials on videotape on the same night. Frankly, when my
hair was longer I was frequently mistaken for Fabio (without the lisp).
When it comes to wheels, Large Pickup has almost as many bumper stickers
as the Millennium Falconmobile but mine are a bit more boring in
content.
Where did the nick name Dumpmeister come from? Well, several
possible sources. I spent 20 years working for a defense contractor and
spent a fair portion of that time sitting down. It might also have been
the ease with which I initially mastered the 180 degree Eskimo roll. I
really can't remember precisely.
The more people who know you kayak, the more places you will be
spotted kayaking simultaneously. If you have been kayaking for a while,
most of the following conversation with a non-kayaking acquaintance will
be familiar to you: "Yeah, like, I saw you kayaking yesterday off
of Newport." "Is that right? What time of day?" "Oh,
about 11:00 AM." "That was me." An hour later, with a
kayaklng acquaintance: "Yeah, like, I saw you kayaking yesterday
off of Point Judith." "Is that right? What time of day?"
"Oh, about 11:00 AM." "What kind of boat?"
"Looked like a yellow sit-on-top." "Choke. Gag. Retch. I
don't think so."
People occasionally ask me "How do you become a kayak
suffer." Well, the answer varies depending upon the audience but I
generally suggest starting by not naming your boat as I did in the past
with sea kayak WOOOSH. A surf boat does not respond well to any name,
much less one like "Poopsie". Leave that phase of your life
behind you. Next, learn to twirl your paddle in the air both left and
right handed. Wear your helmet during these practice sessions! This is a
cool beach move. Learn to pick up your feathered paddle with your toes
(real surfers don't wear bootie shoe things). This has practical use
since once your boat is on your shoulder you can potentially strain your
back reaching for the paddle. If you can increase your repertoire of
tricks to critical mass, you may never have to leave the beach and,
instead, meet babes who immediately see through the charade but who,
nevertheless, appreciate an original effort. If you should actually be
placed in a position where you have to get your boat wet, poor vision is
a great asset. If you could clearly see the conditions you are
committing yourself to, you wouldn't. To become a good kayak surfer just
watch how the good surfers do things. Intently watch them and visually
dissect every move they do. It is surprising how few folks do this,
especially given that it's all happening right in front of their eyes.
Watch, dissect, try out and, finally, ask questions once you've tried
hard. All the surfers I know are quite willing to share their knowledge.
I suppose this is a good opportunity to make a confession about
Narragansett Town Beach. The surf at Narragansett is invariably Lousy.
Miserable. Not surfable. The surf there is a "beach break",
one in which the waves usually come straight in toward the shore instead
of pealing off from one side to the other. We started going there
originally because it was convenient for parking and beach access (it
still is) and we knew there were often waves. However, in time one may
discover the world of difference between waves and surfable waves. The
Duke knew before our group did about the surf there when he said
"If the surf is good at Narragansett, it's better somewhere
else." True. However, it is a good place for out of staters to
surf. A great spot. If, however, your goal down shifts from surfing to
learning to manage your boat in challenging conditions or to saying
hello to fellow boaters on Wednesday night then Narragansett is a good
place to improve those boating skills.
So you might ask, if Narragansett is a poor spot to surf, where is
"somewhere else"? Good try. If you are a fisherman do you tell
everyone where your secret spot is? I don't. I hold this truth to be
self evident: divulge the location of a good surfing spot and you will
die a swift death at the hands of one of the local denizens of that
spot. I wish to live long and prosper. Broadcasting the location of a
good surf spot is a bad idea, even if you personally know Vinny Pazienza. For the
record, they're all in California. Surfer magazine tells me so. As far
as prosperity is concerned, "prosperous surfer" is yet another
example of an oxymoron. To find the spots you have to invest your time,
often during rainy and windy weather. Another thing: why is it that you
don't often see the upper end surfers? It is because they typically go
to different places than you do at odd times of day and in
"poor" (read that as "good") weather conditions.
I view the transformation from a novice kayak suffer (a few steps
above a novice kayaker) to a surfer as the following progression:
suicidal, kayaker, kayak surfer, surfer. A suicidal has no roll, uses a
nylon spray skirt instead of a quality neoprene skirt and wears no
helmet. A kayaker uses leans and strokes, not a rudder, to redirect the
boat, and the first response to a capsize is always a roll. A kayak
surfer can roll under any conditions but usually doesn't have to and
typically surfs diagonally toward shore. A surfer recognizes as many
board surfers by sight as kayak surfers and can read both waves and
lineups. A "surfer" may be tacitly, but almost never
explicitly, accepted into the board surfers line up. "Kayak
surfers" might get hurt by a loose surf board.
Surfing is, at some point, an often solitary pursuit. Once you
quit your "gotta be there from 7 to 4" job to follow surf, it
isn't easy to find another similar level boater with the same time
flexibility and love for the chase. The surf doesn't arrive every
Wednesday at 5:00 PM; sometimes it happens on Tuesday at 7:00 AM.
Cellular phones are a solution to communication but not an available
audience. "Don't boat alone" makes sense and will continue to
make sense because a partner in another boat in the water is one more
step towards safety, even if they're not in your immediate vicinity. For
me, that particular safety net happens less than 20% of the time on a
year round basis.
I've often thought about what I like about surfing; what is it
that creates the addiction. I guess it is a number of things: The pure
freedom with rules that are few and essential, kind of like the 10
Commandments, just fewer. I love the wild west atmosphere in which many
contest for a wave but only one rides it. I love the fact that those who
take the greatest risk often own the wave, and, both admiration and
respect are earned, not allotted by quota. I love the winter surfing
crowd because they're the pros. I even love the territorial board
surfers because they're tough and mean and looking out for their (and
my) neighborhood. Last, I love the point in a session where the stick
you happen to surf with becomes a non-issue and we all hoot for each
other after a steep take off or a good move. Surfing makes me feel more
alive than anything else l do.
* Thanks to the Talking Heads and
their album Stop Making Sense for most of that quote.
Copyright 1996 - Ray Farnum