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Rhode
Island
Surf Reports, etc. |
GOTTA
BE
TRUE |
GOOD CHANCE |
TOO SOON TO
TELL |
PROBABLY
CLUELESS
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ARCHIVED
- 2002
Surf Reports - |
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You
may have surfed today but the experience isn't complete until you
find out how good it was by reading about it here. :-)
Also check out the Road
Updates (currently not up and running) page, especially in the summer months.
Surfing
X-Files
now up and running. Ever wonder who is in that black limo
going 85?
If you
don't see any updates for a while then there's probably no surf :-(
or, it's one and a half, and
I'm on the road until it dies out
:-)
|
| Date |
Comments: |
01/01/03
Wednesday |
At 9:00 AM
Lite was almost firing - some peaks but not a whole lot of walls -
definite occasional chest high+, glassy and no one out. Parking
lot empty! I did the right thing: got dressed and went out;
it was good to have an easy decision to start off the New Year
with. Surfed almost 3 hours and the best was early before a light
breeze came up from the NE. There were other breaks working but I
was done at noon. Nice little session. Took a little nap
this afternoon to catch up on the lack of sleep last night! Happy
New Year everyone! Everyone who slept in this morning is really
appreciated . . . . . . dr.
S u
r f
|
12/27/02
Friday |
Haus was a
solid knee high at 2 PM but it was a sunny late afternoon and glassy so
I got dressed and went out. Nothing special to write about . . .
good to get wet and catch a few small waves for about 2 hours.
Yesterday (12/26) was maybe shoulder high at midday and
only one board out there. I suspect the locals grabbed the early
morning shift and were gone by noon but you never know.
Looks like no surf for the next couple of days.
|
12/14/02
Saturday
Supersession |
Pretty
intense 4 hour session today. Glass, very big sets, not a
consistent take off zone but the lefts and rights were firing. A
locals hall of fame session today. Edgar, Bobby, Josh, Mike (but
no Jay or Fred). We were lined up waaay out there in no mans land
and even that seemed inside at times. Some of the drops and walls
were pretty good. I'm lacking words to describe it right now but
if I close my eyes I can see that horizon turn black and guys wasting no
time moving out. As far as I'm concerned the best I saw was Edgar
with almost a "no paddle" drop over a big wave as if on
automatic pilot. Right place at the right time!
|
12/13/02
Friday |
Got out
early this morning and checked a few breaks. Settled on the haus
and spent maybe 3 hours out there. Bright, sunny, glassy, morning
with very little surf. Later in the morning there was an
occasional waist high. Some times you just go out there get wet;
waves are a bonus. Slight sun burned face - a bonus situation in
Rhode Island in December!
|
12/12/02
Thursday
10:00_AM |
Marine
prediction last night was 10-15 K breeze from the N. Actual this
AM was near 30 from the NW. 2 breaks were knee high at 8:30
AM. Another was head high but that wind was tough. I saw one
short board out there doing the right thing. I lost interest with
the wind situation this AM. Maybe another day . . .
Saturday? If the wind drops later on today then there are
possibilities . . .
|
12/06/02
Friday
Updated Saturday AM |
*Unable to publish this update yesterday
- service provider was down*
The water
was a major challenge today. High tide and a fairly good sized
swell working. It was a challenge to get out through the shore
break. I made my first wave - a medium fast right with a nice
wall. On the second wave I took off too deep, the lower wall
bulged out, the top came over and down and Dr. Surf got mashed by
thundering cold water. Ugh. Really light headed. After
that I got really conservative out there!
Finally switched breaks and rode for a few hours all
alone. One other board out there - he took the lefts and I had the
rights. Sets were walls of water with some excellent drops and
verticality. Haus was deserted today - no kayaks and just a (very)
few boards. Surfed 3 1/2 hours today and got out at 1:00 PM.
All points and reefs were going off.
Surf conservatively out there from now on 'til next
May. Water is cold and getting caught inside can leave you
disoriented.
|
11/30/02
Saturday |
The sun was
just beginning to rise as I got into the water this morning; surfed
until 5 minutes of noon. Waves were often challenging to catch but
there were also some nice makeable sets that came through. Haus
wasn't clean so went to a favorite winter break. Saw Mike, Mike,
Jay, Bobby and Josh and many other locals out there. Kinda tired
tonight - took an hour nap at home after a rather large junk food meal
on the road. Remember taking off a number of times and going
left 'til the last second; then doing a fast 180 and coming backside
along that nice inside wall. Surf died out about 25 minutes during
the tide change and then came back even stronger as the wind dropped to
nothing for a while. Had 2 waves that looked like certain close
outs but they just hung vertical and were good to this ole surfer.
A good session; good swell working.
|
11/19/02
Tuesday
Excellente! |
Been out to
Indianapolis at a national conference for men who minister to
other men (www.ncmm.org) for 4 days and completely away from the surf
scene. Arrived back in RI Saturday at midnight light headed from
extreme salt water deprivation. Did the dawn patrol this
morning. Arrived at the haus and saw glassy shoulder high rights
peeling off like the Cranston Surf Patrol used to dream about around
mid-July before they got too old to surf. :-) No one out there
when I arrived but there were a half dozen guys getting the wet suits on
in record time!
Surfed about 2 1/2 hours in some nice wedge shaped drops
that were solid head high+ (sets) and some long rides. It was
really excellent today. There were also large schools of fish and
sea birds following them. A little before 10 the breeze came up
from the NW and the swell got smaller. Perfect session this
morning!
|
11/12/02
Tuesday |
Last night
surfed the late afternoon shift until dark. The later it got, the
cleaner the surf. Excellent head high session. This morning
nailed some stuff in a declining swell at another break.
Occasional nice clean set came through in a no stress session. Got in a
whole lot of water time in the last 24 hours.
|
11/09/02
Saturday
11:25_AM |
Hung around
yesterday hoping something would happen but it never did. So, did
the dawn patrol thing this morning; just drove to my favorite break at
6:30AM with the stereo playing music that matters! There was surf
being analyzed by a couple of locals but it was small and sloppy at
first. It slowly built up and cleaned up so by late morning there
was an occasional nice wave. Mostly rights. Good session
today!
|
11/06/02
Wednesday |
It was very
big when I got out there at 10 AM this morning. Left was closing
but the right was awesome - good drop and curved, fast face if you
didn't grab the closeout wave! Had the right all to myself the whole
time! Later rode the left and the set waves were very big.
Alternated catching some solid walls with the Pan Man who, for a while,
was the only other person out there with me. Ripping some of the
time and avoiding being crushed the rest of the time! The inside
break wall was holding up some of the time for that old "fly on the
wall" feeling. Got in 4 hours plus and immensely tired at the
end. Perfect day but I'm a little out of physical shape with the
infrequent surf lately. That will change, hopefully. If you
worked today instead of surfing - I gotta say . . . thanks, podner!
I grabbed a few for ya.
|
10/31/02
Friday |
It's been a
quiet week so yesterday afternoon I took a chance and drove to the water
despite the forecast and, sure enough, it was flat!
Going to do the same again today as the wind is going to be picking
up. There are waves off shore but they're too far south.
Getting the dreaded surf deprivation symptoms again! I cut down a
big tree too near the house and sectioned it up yesterday but it was a
poor substitute for stealing "da
Cat's"
wave. Oink. Snort!
|
10/26/02
Saturday |
Waited until
3:00 PM to get wet. Miscalculated the degree of difficulty getting
through the shore break and got slammed a couple of times. Ted Pan was
the only other one there contemplating the shore break. Finally walked a
way up the beach and was successful getting out. Close out sets
made the left unrideable so I worked the right. Wind stopped for a
little while and then went NW. Caught a few waves but not the
usual quota! Maybe a half dozen others out there doing the after
work thing. Mainly surfed outside. All the usual locals gave up
too early in the day!
|
10/17/02
Thursday
PM |
Most
excellent 6+ hour session today. Very few people out there this
morning. Surfed 2 different breaks. Occasional 1 1/2 (set waves)
but mostly head high early. Slacked off at tide change and
then picked up again. Firing all day. Semi-glass at
mid-day. Rights and lefts. Boom boom badda_bing. If
you worked today you made an unwise choice! Some nice drops at
times. Deep takeoffs were rewarded. Did I mention that it
was a blast out there today? Totally stoked tonight. Woof,
woof. There's been surf for a week straight.
|
10/16/02
Wednesday
PM |
Checked out
one break today and it was basically "close out stuff"
combined with strong wind. The after work crowd showed up and was
out there but I felt it was a waste of time so eventually left without
getting wet and drove to get a couple of egg rolls at a favorite local
restaurant. Egg rolls were delicious. You didn't miss
anything today.
|
10/12/02
Saturday PM |
Got in about
5+ hours today in windy conditions. Waves got bigger as time went
on. Conditions were "zoolike" (itwasazoooutthere) with a
lotta bodies in the water. It was a local's hall of fame meeting
(they were the ones riding the waves). There were often multiple
people sharing single waves. Once you got used to it . . . it
wasn't that bad! My eyes are tired from the water spray in the
eyes for so many hours. Saw Josh who was there just shaking his
head. I think he's waiting for February when order is restored to
the line up.
Good waves - crowded - excellent session. Been
wondering: why do short boarders drop in on people (and, each other) so
often?
|
10/11/02
Friday 4:30PM |
Surf is
forecast for the indefinite future with the storm on our doorstop.
Been a while since I've seen a marine forecast like the current
one. High winds are the wild card. Keep safe out there.
|
10/05/02
Saturday |
5 1/2 hours
in the water on a very nice, sunny, warm water day. Varied from
knee to head high with clean fun waves. Water is still warm and
several surfers were out there in bathing suits. Considering that
it was a weekend there were very few people at the break I was at.
Saw Wolfman J. for the first time in a while so I guess that appearance
marks the start of the fall surf season. Heard it was breaking
everywhere but I didn't travel around to check. Went straight to
the break and didn't do any second guessing! A few tourists
hanging on with the warm weather but that will soon change.
|
09/28/02
Saturday
PM
Supersession |
"Are
you all right?" Bobby asked. "Sheesh gaspa glunk wheeze"
"Are you OK man?" I realized he was serious
and so I managed something like "yeah". It was late this
afternoon and I just completed about 14 hours in the water the last 2
days. Today was the day the swell finally arrived and I hit 3
breaks - one in the morning and the same one in the PM - twice.
Surfed both the incoming and outgoing tides. No lunch either day.
Yesterday was pretty small but not today. Windy early then
occasionally semi-glassy. It was booming at times with some big
close-outs. Saw Jay, Bobby, Victor, Sven, Ken, Jerome and just
about everyone on the planet was out there at some time or another
(except Fred - MIA?). Sunburned face - mind turned to toast - red
eyes from looking into the sun - stomach muscles like an overstretched
rubber band - heart still near my throat from some of the drops.
There are a whole lotta tired people tonight with big grins!
|
09/27/02
Friday 7:30AM |
So far, this
storm is the most overrated non-surf event that I've seen in many
years. The deal is that it went much further inland than
originally predicted and surf needs an ocean storm. Will we get
surf? I think so but the question is when. Stay tuned.
|
09/25/02
Wednesday
minor_Rant included
...sorry
Old people: just_don't read....it |
All the
intel I see plus some newly discovered sources indicate surf for a while
although not all of it will be big. The summer drought is over for
the near term.
Rant:
Hey, this is not related to surfing but the new Google news beta site is
cool. I checked it this morning for the first time. Goodbye forever to
NBC, CBS and ABS and their spinning the news to fit their common
political agendas! The net is cool isn't it? Commercial TV
(not an oxymoron) has become totally moot and irrelevant.
About time! Next, we
need to see some new
Internet portals in the USA
that don't spin the news the way AOL and MSN.com constantly do - always
talking down President Bush much the same way Radio Iraq would.
Whose side are they on?
PM
update: 2 hours today
in solid knee high. Exceptionally high tide.
PPS 9/26:
Finally worked over the film from 9/11. Will post shots on the
front page starting this week.
|
09/24/02
Tuesday |
Dawn patrol
this morning. At the water before dawn so drove around and checked
everything out. Not much going on until I checked out 6/5/4, a
winter break. Nice clean waist high pealing off and no one
out. Surfed 4 1/2 hours in mostly small stuff with a rare wave now
and then jacking up to head high on the take off. Good
session. All the locals were hanging out nearby. Caught a
certain nameless individual slumming at a break he never goes to!
Cannot say more. Met Ken from NY in his 3rd year of surfing and
John was out there with me also.
|
09/21/02
Saturday
AM |
Sometimes it
seems that the term "Rhode Island surf" is oxymoronic.
Nothing going on at the moment and for the next couple of days.
The only thing of interest is watching the long term prediction on the
hurricane in the Gulf of Mexico turning around from Mexico and heading
towards the coast near the Fla. panhandle. I sure am glad I don't
live near the water down there!
|
09/17/02
PM |
Well, I
thought it was going to be flat this AM but it wasn't. Nice little
clean thigh - waist high and 2 of us out there for a couple of
hours. The Cranston Surf Patrol called this one right. Mostly
lefts working today. As it began to get chopped out maybe a half dozen
guys showed up but by then we wuz outta there.
|
09/16/02
Monday
3:00 PM |
Well, I
suppose this update is a bit overdue . . . The marine forecast for
the weekend storm was initially 5-10' then was changed to 4-8' and
currently remains at 3-6'. Horsefeathers. Bogus.
It's flat to barely knee high out there. The NOAA forecast
didn't react to the fact that the remnants of tropical storm Hannah went
way inland instead of along the coast south of RI so we didn't get surf
although we got wind and rain. Gonna be flat for a few more days too.
|
09/11/02
Tuesday |
In the water
at 7AM and out at 11:45. Conditions were occasionally solid head
high and it was glassy for an extended time. Caught a couple of
screamers during that time: nice drops and a solid wall ahead.
This was the second day of surf from the off shore storm that turned
into a hurricane. The greatest challenge was getting out at high
tide with the waves pounding on the rocks. Dangerous depending
upon where you were surfing. One surfer broke the fin box on his
board trying to get out of the water! The wind picked up strongly
from the NW to effectively end the session. Went to a crowded
break and shot some film after the wind picked up - will have it here
"soon" - probably next week after this is just a distant
memory! Great 2 day swell. There may be some residual waves
once the NW winds die out - time will tell.
|
09/10/02
Monday |
Surfed from
around 8 to noon in some occasionally solid waves. Definite swell
under way. Too tired to write more at the moment!
|
09/09/02
PM |
Saw a couple
of locals this early afternoon in deep cover (1 mingling with tourists
at the Town beach behind sun glasses; another ducking behind the
Narragansett post office heading away from the water). I suspect
they wus doin' the recon thang but it is flat on a 90 degree day in
RI. Predicted 35 knot NW_erlies might spoil the party . . .stay
tuned. Plus, There are certain systemic failures (a certain surf
cam is down and the buoy servers are extremely slow) - looks like
sumptins up.
|
09/02/02
PM |
Great
session today. Wet for at least 5 hours with the best waves around
2 PM. Some strong rain at times. Haven't surfed at that
break for at least 6 months and had it all to myself for maybe an hour
and a half. Excellent session and dog tired at the end. It
is good to be back in the surf groove - been a long dry flat summer.
|
08/28/02
noon |
Checked out all
the breaks this AM but didn't go out. Not that clean. A few
people out at the usual busy spots but conditions didn't
"move" me to get wet.
|
| 08/27/02
AM |
I've been
studying the weather this last week and it is clear that there is a
fundamental shift in the surf trend away from flat to having surf.
Current wave periods are in the 14 second range and advance forecasts
show E and NE winds with off shore storms. Looks like the surf may
pick up soon. That's good news because I saw 6 locals yesterday
who had come out of summer hibernation. Without being too specific
(EM and MM) I saw guys on large boards going after tiny waves as if they
were the set of the decade! Cheer up people: the drought is about
ovah.
Surfed about 2 hours
just before noon time in some "solid knee high" stuff.
|
08/26/02
Monday |
There was a
little wave action today so finally got wet this afternoon. Surfed
about 2 hours in waves knee high going flat and then again to occasional
waist high. Some localistas out there today. Surfed with the
EdenMeister as well as Mons_tahMon. Fun time in small waves.
Some surfed Sunday also as there were small waves then also.
|
| 08/19/02
PPM |
"Seas
gradually increasing in a southeasterly swell becoming 4' to 10' with a
light offshore breeze."
Wow! That sounds more like it doesn't it? Day dreaming here
this evening in RI on a hot, dry and very flat night. Back to
sleep. Zzzzzzz. If you got caught off guard by this made up
forecast drop me a line here.
|
08/16/02
Friday_AM |
Last Monday
there was a little unadvertised special and all the locals took
advantage of it. Wednesday I spent maybe 4 hours out there
attempting to surf boat wakes. I know one local with his house up for
sale. No outside watering in many communities due to the drought. It's
dry, hot, flat, no storms heading this way.
|
08/14/02
Wednesday 6:20_AM |
No surf in
sight. It's becoming exceptionally dry with the lack of
rain. I know 1 municipal water system with "drought
warning" signs posted; urging customers to really conserve water.
As far as surf is concerned, there isn't any. Only
possibility is wind in the next week stirring up a little wind swell in
the late afternoon. We need rain and surf here in the best little
state in the union.
|
08/10/02
Sat._PM |
Little solid knee
highs at the haus this afternoon but definitely rideable at times.
Out there about 2 hours and caught 1 chest high in that time. It
seemed like a really big wave after what has been happening this
summer! Saw Mike, John and Nathan on the water. It was
really good to get wet.
|
08/07/02
5:25_PM |
Fri: NW
Wind around 10 kts early, becoming SW 10 to 15 kts late. seas 1 to 2 Ft.
Fri Night: SW Wind 10 to 15 kts becoming W late. Seas 1 to 2 Ft.
Sat: W Wind 10 to 15 kts becoming SW late. Seas 1 to 3 Ft.
Sat Night: SW Wind 10 to 15 kts. Seas 1 to 3 Ft.
Sun: SW Wind around 15 kts. Seas 1 to 3 Ft.
Above is the current
"public" surf forecast as of 2:47 PM: Don't believe
it. You read it first right here.
|
| 08/06/02 |
Big canadian
high pressure system driving the coastal storm out to sea. Back to
sleep . . .
|
08/05/02
Monday AM |
Wow.
This has been a flat
summer. I'm getting a lot of email from all over asking where to
find surf locally but the answer is there is no surf going
on. It has been flat, flat, flat. At the moment the forecast
is 3-6' today but I don't believe it because the ocean is calm.
There is a small storm forming off Hatteras but the waves in the area
have a very short wave period right now so it is too soon to get worked
up over it. The Atlantic is calm all the way to Africa. So,
basically, BLAH. No tension in the gut (due to approaching "1
and a half" when I haven't been out in big surf in months); just
resignation to another day of no surf. This will change some time
soon and updates here will be more frequent, Lord willing.
PM update - hung out watching occasional thigh hi
unrideable closeout at the haus. Couple of locals showed up
stickless so the confidence factor was at an all time low. I think
there will be some surf 3-4 days from now. Might even last for
more than 1 day. We shall see.
|
07/27/02
Saturday PM |
Surfed about
an hour and a half in some small stuff. It was best about 6:30 PM
and about thigh hi. Heard it was better earlier in the day but saw
big John at a traffic light on the way home and he said it had been
small all day. Soooo . . . it looks like Dr.
Surf scores again . .
. A-men!
About this time of year if I saw head high it would look
intimidating after all the solid knee hi I see on a once a week (or so)
basis. The skills definitely diminish in the summer due to lack of
serious soif.
|
07/23/02
Tuesday PM |
Been away
for almost 2 weeks on a trip so updates here have been
non-existent. Fred says there was surf a week ago on Tuesday and
there was a small wind swell today. Surfed the AM and PM shifts
and got maybe 5-6 hours total in the water plus a modest sun burn
today. It was mainly good to get wet and hang out with the guys
for most of the day.
|
07/10/02
Wednesday |
Been out
twice in the last 2 weeks; most recently was early this morning doing
the dawn patrol. Caught several long chest high rights and the
rest mostly waist hi at my favorite deserted summertime break. At the
moment it is a challenge to find surf except when the right combinations
of tide and wind exist. That will change in a few weeks.
Updates here for the next 2 weeks will be sporadic, if that. Will
check back in when there is something to write about. Lots of
speed traps out there now that it's tourist season . . . well . . . it
does keep the locals taxes lower . . . :-)
|
06/30/02
Sunday AAM |
Nice little
swell the last 2 days. Friday was the best and Saturday wasn't
that shabby either. In a rare Saturday decision we headed for
crowded Tunces at 10:30 AM. Seems like some jet skiers had been
doing aerials in a surf zone so the police were called and they, in
turn, called for the DEM boat. I got out to the area they had been
in just as they left and, for over 2 hours, had a break all to myself on
an exceptionally busy Saturday! Incredible. Head high (set
waves) jacking up on the take off and maybe chest high+ down the
line. Mostly rights but some lefts too.
Went over to the S. Side after a few Jimmy Dawgs for lunch
and had another break to myself. It was Unreal to score like that
in the middle of summer. Finally got out around 5:00 PM and sat
down with Dave, Michelle and John and watched the swell die out.
|
06/25/02
Tuesday |
Update for
yesterday afternoon. Found a break with almost no one out.
Waves were thigh high on the ride but jacked way up on the take
off! Exceptionally cool. No one out in the summertime? Oi
veh! No one out except for perhaps the Cranston Surf Patrol, Dr.
Edgar, Big John and the Doctor of surfology, er, me!
|
06/22/02
Saturday |
Nice little
thigh high at times this afternoon. About 5 PM everyone got out of
the water, the waves cleaned up and it went to chest high (in
sets). Of course, someone had to stay out there so I did.
Got quite a few rides and finally got out of the water at 6:15 PM.
Decent session!
|
06/17/02
Monday |
Knee to
shoulder high at one break only today. Got in a few hours in the
PM but the best was in the late AM. Surf has been slow and small
lately which is normal in the off season. Saw several locals out
there today ignoring the local surf forecasts of flat water. 2'-4'
can mean anything from flat to head high! Glad it came on a
Monday.
|
06/06/02
Thursday |
Nice little
afternoon session in mostly chest high. At 2:15 PM a deep, dense,
dark fog enveloped us that was kind of eerie! Immediately
afterwards the wind went from calm to strong NE and the session was
over. It was good to hang out this morning with a number of
celebrities and assorted desperados while waiting for the expected surf
to materialize.
|
06/05/02
Wednesday |
Warming up
the vehicular sticktransporter for a dash to the breakasizer hoping to
avoid the kookarachas and kookarachinos. Eh? Muy Bien!
Unfortunately, at 3:30 PM, it was unrideable.
|
06/01/02
Saturday |
Swell
continued, occasional head high but mostly waist / chest and a certain
parking lot was full from sun up. It was full body armor contact
surfing. Lots of beginners out there who have no concept of what the
phrase "dropping in" means. saw Josh out there on a
monster board. Can fall be that far off? In any event, caught a
few waves and hung out enjoying the sun and warm offshore breeze.
Jimmy is selling hot dawgs again so I had a couple. A little
sunburn working tonight.
|
05/31/02
Friday |
Surfed a
total of 7 hours today in conditions ranging from knee hi to head
high. Nice little swell coming in all day and just about
everything was going off. In the water from about 8:30 to 1 PM and
then 2 - 4:30 PM. Excellent sessions on the last day of May.
All the locals and a few hundred others were out today. No one
went hungry.
|
05/28/02
Tuesday |
Updates less
frequent now as the summer season is fully upon us. Surf (head
high) the last 2 Fridays in a row. Will we have 3 in a row?
Stay tuned.
"I wandered down to ******** early AM on 5/24, early,
Nadda, by about 8:30-9:00, waist-chest, by 10:00, shoulder- head high.
Very long 4 1/2 hr. session" - Cranston Surf Patrol
|
05/19/02
Sunday |
I missed
Friday's head high afternoon swell due to an out of town commitment but
all the reports were excellent. Looking ahead at the moment it
looks fairly flat for the week ahead. Getting ready for the
traditional summer kick off with Memorial Day next weekend.
|
05/14/02
Tuesday |
Arrived at
the water at 7:15 AM to be greeted by a nice little head high
swell. Surfed 4 hours straight with a fair sized summer type crowd
out there. Some nice sets came through and at times they were a
challenge to catch because there wasn't a consistency to them.
Fred, Victor and Josh were spotted out there. Don't let Fred call
your wave! Baddabing, baddaboom!!!
|
05/06/02
Monday
(Updated
Tuesday) |
Been
quiet. Next few days will have that summer SW breeze so possible
afternoon wind waves. Not a whole lot going on. Time to get
the lawn mower working . . .Looking ahead for the next 5 days looks very
promising. Atlantic is stirred up and may increase.
|
04/29/02
Monday |
Whoa.
What a morning that was! Arrived at the water at 7:00 AM working
on a hunch and the first place (secret break) I looked at was goin'
off! Got dressed, went out and had one of the best breaks around
all to myself for nearly 2 1/2 hours. Waves were occasional bigger
than head high. Vic eventually showed up with his new 7' 2"
Time Bomb and there were more waves than we could handle. Later
the breeze switched behind the peaks and it got glassy. Leaden
gray winter type waves head high with nice little drops.
Best wave of the day was early: the top feathered out for
maybe a hundred feet out front of me and the wall held up all the way to
the end! Cool wave. A classic winter session in late spring!
|
04/26/02
Thursday |
Taking a few
days off water. Busy with Mission work. Possible surf next
Monday/Tuesday?
|
04/24/02
Wednesday |
There was
surf this AM if you were at the right place at the right time.
I wasn't! Missed this one . . .
|
04/23/02
Tuesday |
Got up
early, drove to the water and got there at 6:35AM. Small swell was
mostly wrapping at the haus and closing so tried another spot and
immediately saw a clean shoulder high set. No wind. Got
dressed, went out and nailed a couple but it didn't last. Just got
smaller and then the wind picked up and cross chopped it out.
There were waves at dawn but even 6:30 was a little late for this
one. It was good to get wet, however.
|
| 04/18/02 |
April 17,
2002. Mostly flat for the next few days
|
04/17/02
Wednesday
Winter season over |
The winter
surf season officially came to an end yesterday as my trusty 3/2 came
out of the closet at home and saw its own shadow. This was
independently confirmed (for you purists) by unrepentant tourists
parking in the reserved parking spaces of hard core locals and a half
dozen repetitions of the same question "Isn't the water cold
now?" "No, it's not. It's quite warm compared to
January." There are even rumors of Jimmy opening up the hot
dog stand "real soon now." I like the double up special
(kraut dog // regular with relish and both drowned with that spicy
mustard. Don't forget the ice cold soda!).
If there are no updates here then check the Road
Updates page as we do the summer thang on the road. The amount
of time I spend at this keyboard is inversely proportional to the
temperature so when it hits 90 degrees or above expect me to be focused
on ice and cool drinks, not observations about flat water.
Pleasant dreams until next October when we again get the serious mojo
fired up again, Lord willing.
Hurricane season starts June 1st. May the storms stay
off shore, the swells be 1 1/2, the kookeritos and kookeritas all go to
the Town Beach and may you have a peaceful summer.
|
04/16/02
Tuesday |
Beautiful,
warm, sunny, water in the mid 40's. Oh yes, waist high summer
waves and plenty to go around. Got out of the water at 2:30 after
2 1/2 hours and it was still rideable. I was out alone then there
were 2 of us ridin' them Cat waves then there were 3 of us then there
was Bobby and Malibu and then and then . . . It worked out - plenty to
go around!
|
04/13/02
Saturday AM |
Surfed twice
this week, including yesterday (Friday) in average waist high.
Nothing special in terms of wave size; just nice to get wet.
Yesterday was a bright sunny day and the water, although in the mid
40's, is starting to seem "warmer". Everyone I talk to
is moving down one wet suit thickness. If you haven't surfed all
winter (and aren't used to 45 degree water) then stick with the whale
blubber for another week or so!
|
04/05/02
Friday |
No surf for
at least 3 days. The weather pattern is changing to summer
mode. Almost time to hang up the stick until next winter.
OK, OK - speaking very optimistically there might be a
little something in the Tuesday time frame. Water temp is at 43
(F) and warming up quickly. Won't be too long until we run the
annual "I thought I saw someone in just a bathing suit out
there!" contest. Details forthcoming.
|
04/03/02
Wednesday |
Prediction
of 4'-8' seas by the Boston Marine forecast was somewhat
optimistic. Reality this afternoon was maybe 2' in infrequent
"solid knee high." Saw a rare waist high but that was
about it. Out maybe an hour and a half.
|
03/30/02
Saturday |
4th straight
day of surf. Got in at Aves in the early afternoon and surfed for 3
hours. Clean, jacking up on the take off but the basic wave was
fairly slow. Could get away with some deep take offs. There
were a few medium sized sets. Lots of guys out and a few new faces
in the line up. Very relaxing session. Good to get so many
consecutive days in the water. Gear hasn't dried out for a while!
|
03/28
& 03/29
Posted_3/30 |
Been surfing
so much haven't had time to write it up here! Several hours at a
solitary break Thursday. Not too big - maybe waist with some
bigger sets. Good until the wind came up.
Friday surfed the nearly flat lite with 2 other unnamed
veterans occasional waist high but mostly solid knee . . .
|
03/27/02
Wednesday
Supersession |
At low tide
the swell disappeared completely for about a half hour. I got in
about 1:00 PM and things just started to build. Eventually it was
goin' off with sets at 1 1/2. Supersession today. Clean
walls, nice drops, exceptionally pure stoke. Still got it working
3 hours later! YAHOO. There, that's better. Whole lot
of guys and girls out there today but no one went hungry. Just a
Super Wednesday. Hope you had a blast
wherever you were ridin' today!
|
03/21/02
Thursday |
Today was a
blast! The parking lot was crowded but there were so many waves it
seemed like we spent all our time paddling out! Not a day to go to sleep
out there. Decent sets just about the time the breeze came up from
the SW. Occasional solid overhead and a lot of head high.
Got a little smaller around 1:00 PM but still definitely rideable.
Shot some film between 1:30 and 2:00 PM and, as always, we'll have it up
on this site "real soon now!" A special thanks to "Malibu"
Russ for the snap shot of yours truly grappling with a wave this
last January.
All the regulars were out there today and I believe a
certain Craaaanston native went back out a second time. There are
some tired surfers in Rhode Island tonight.
|
03/20/02
Wednesday |
Ted got out
of the water just as I was deciding to get in. Very windy, cold,
driving rain. Rate this session as a 1/2 on a scale of 5!
|
03/19/02
Tuesday |
There were
so many locals in the parking lot after this 2 hour session today that I
almost started asking for autographs! Lots of waves, light
offshores with chest high clean and some bigger sets. Caught one
beautiful right that didn't close out or I'd still be picking sand (or
boulders) out of my teeth. I hung left from the main pack and
caught some sets.
Very
hospitable out there today considering how many were in the water.
None of the dropping in or other behavior that marks the tourist
season. Very enjoyable. As I was leaving Bobby went out for
the first time since the back injury; spotted Jay on a (for him) tiny 9'
6" short instead of the 11' 2" loggermaximo.
|
03/16/02
Saturday |
Got wet at
mid_morning in generally solid ankle to rare chest high. Lotta
guys out there. On a scale of 10 this was a 2 but that's the way
it goes some times. First wave I caught was the best of the
session. Gotta catch the next 4 weeks because, on average, after
that it we'll be into summer conditions and the updates here get
infrequent.
Spring
is next Wednesday!
|
03/15/02
Friday |
Got to the
water early. Flags hanging straight down. No wind - pure
glass and waves! No one around for miles. Got dressed at
home this morning and was ready to hit the water as soon as the motion
of the van stopped. Classic conditions although a lot smaller than
yesterday. Caught 2 head highs in an hour and a half and a lot of
waist high cleanus pealus rightus. Sunny, mild (40's), in the shade on
sets with the low early morning sun. After all, it's all OVERHEAD
TO ME!
Got home and there were two pictures attached to an email
from Bobby which I put up on the kayak picture page.
Thanks Dr. Bob!
|
03/14/02
Thursday |
Lighthouse today, easily
chest - shoulder, with MANY head high set
waves. Lot's of bodies, but very manageable & a beautious day. I'll
be down tomorrow picking up the scraps. Hope their will be some left. E.
didn't think so, said the storm was a fast mover, but I'm hoping he's
wrong. Aloha, da Cat
|
03/13/02
Wednesday |
Surfed
mid_day at a place so secret I can't say more. No one out and a
long paddle from the car. Mostly "solid knee high" with
occasional shoulder high every so often on a day where nothing else was
even rideable. Rights were clean. Had it all to myself. No one for
miles. Wave size picked up even more in late PM but I had to go.
|
03/11/02
Monday |
Added 90 meg
of storage for the QuietWaters.org domain today (03/11/02). The
hope is that this upgrade will eventually translate to more pictures,
stories and stoke.
|
03/10/02
Sunday PM |
Got into the
water around 3:30PM and out at dusk. Little lines coming in with a
rare head high. Mostly waist though. Very windy at times
with that west wind blowing. The last hour no one was out and it
started going off. Lefts and rights. Fun stuff and it's
always nice to have any wave you want.
|
03/09/02
Saturday
4:45AM |
One 3 hour
session this last week (Wednesday) at the Haus in some really nice clean
stuff but did not get a chance to update it here. One other day of surf
but not as big. This was the busiest week of the winter for me with off
water activities. I haven't seen certain locals out there recently
and got the scoop last night from Da Cat who has had 2 weeks of cat
scratch fever. Bob has back problems at the moment and so does
Josh. In their absence, last Wednesday, Victor and Jeff were out
doing Haus duty and overseeing things. I admit to grabbing a few cat
waves that rolled in every so often.
|
03/04/02
Monday
1:50PM |
Inadvertently left my camera at home today. Darn. Set waves
today were big. Surfed from before 8 AM until about 11:15. Got the
biggest barrel I've ever had by accident. Went around a board in
the water, ended up too deep on what looked like a sure close out but it
didn't! I just got lucky but what a rush!!! Think I'll wait a
while before trying to take off that deep again unless the wave is
smaller.
Afterwards went over to the Haus where a surf contest was
going on. First contest I've witnessed with surf . . .
people without the contest shirts on were getting the best waves.
Cameras, bullhorns and flags turn a nice surf break into a 3 ring
circus. Guess I'm not a contest fan.
|
03/02/02
Saturday |
The storm on the
way will probably yield the biggest surf of the winter but storm force
winds are tied to it. The deal is this - forecasts and other surf
sites hyping this storm are just guessing right now. Watch the
wind as it swings from SW to W. If it drops off rapidly then
further updates of this surf report will be delayed for a while . .
.
About 6 weeks are left in the surf season. Be careful
out there.
|
02/27/02
Wednesday
(Posted 2/28/02 AM) |
Surfed
yesterday for almost 5 hours in conditions that ran the whole range from
waist to overhead, crowded to all alone, flat to
"momma!"
Mike
clued me into looking up into the snow squall to watch the beautiful
large snow flakes as they came down. What a show that was!
Caught some nice rides at 3 different breaks. Surprisingly, some
of the best stuff started coming in just as it was getting dark.
Tall, wide, good solid 1 1/2 drops, clean. SuperSession conditions
at the end (when I was the most tired!). High tide, boulders on
the beach, waves at the shore, steep shore line and tiredness
contributed to getting wacked on the nose by my stick at the
shore. It was a straight on shot or I might have broken it!
The blood looked good for the casual bystander and had me concerned
until I realized that it was just a scratch. On the drive home I
remembered how intense it can be as external parts begin to unfreeze (as
the van heater warms up) and the nicks and dents from a surfing session
begin to "talk" to you. Short term "ouch"!
|
02/25/02
MondayPM |
Possible surf Tuesday and
probable on Wednesday. South wind is unfavorable but with the
predicted wind shift Wed. it may clean up.
|
02/22/02
Friday |
Surfed the haus for about 3+
hours. Solid head high plus between 10 and 1 PM and definitely
rideable. Got smaller in the mid-afternoon. An occasional sneaker
wave so it was a case of staying awake out there. Lots of people
out but the break changed characteristics about every half hour so
everyone got waves. Caught a few nice ones! It was great
watching down the line as others caught these nice long faces.
Silver topped black 38 degree (F) waves and tight walls.
Definitely a cool session.
|
02/20/02
(posted 2/22/02) |
Many hours in the water at 4
different breaks. Saw Sven out there doing a little carving on
some wave faces. Secret breaks were the same size as some of the
more well known ones. Heavy fog and occasional glass conditions.
|
02/19/02
Tuesday |
Surfed for 4 hours. Had
South Side all to myself for a long time. Sunny and glassy.
About waist to chest. Clean. Several long rides well past
the rock room. Wave height and depth were aligned just right so
made it through the normal close out section. Went around the
front side where it was bigger and a few guys out. Fred showed up
also. Around 11 a couple of guys out there taking off on every
wave, dropping in and looking out only for themselves and no one else so
I went in and shot some film rather than lose the stoke. Great
session and a small reminder of what summer will be like! Got a
nice nose ride digitized. Will post it here on the site once time
permits.
|
02/18/02
8:30_PM |
Diminishing wind, ea _ _ swe
_ _. What more can I say early birds?
|
| 02/16/02 |
The prediction of
"mostly flat" this morning got me thinking: it was sunny, the
wind was light, it would get up to about 50 today. So, why not
drive to the water and just check it out? Got to a certain break
and Josh was there with a friend "evaluating" getting wet in
the infrequent waves. I saw one wave that was probably rideable
and ran for the gear. On the water it was definitely rideable and
I had it all to myself! Jeff joined me shortly afterwards and then
Josh and others. As time went on it started going off, eventually
reaching waist to shoulder high, for about 2 hours (despite marine
predictions of 1-3' in the afternoon). At one point there were 18 people
out there but it was firing from 3 different places so no problem.
Nice little unadvertised special today!
|
| 02/13/02 |
Wednesday
2/13: Basic swell continues but so does the wind.
Wind is predicted to drop about noon time.
Tuesday 2/12: Surfed 2
hours at Pa's but the wind was intense at times and the water is full
winter cold now. Once the face froze up and the pain stopped it
was actually not that bad out there! Had one longer ride that made
it worthwhile. No one else out.
Monday 2/11: Surfed
about 1 1/2 hrs at Connies. Lots of waves but when the wind
switched intensely to the NW the session was abruptly over. The
spray felt like a 1 1/2 wave winter hold down! Speaking of which, some
of the guys were at 40's and a certain local went over the falls and was
held down for a bit. Intense situation. He's OK. Water
temp was the main danger since it's in the 30's.
|
| 02/11/02 |
Been hugging palm trees for
a while down in South Miami so no updates recently. Water looks
big this am.
|
01/30/02
(posted
01/31/02) |
Hard to believe that I've
gotten behind updating this surf log . . . but true! Yesterday was
knee/waist high with flat in between and got in a couple of hours.
Initially drove to Tunces where there was a pod of boards out front but
only 2 rubber suits were catching the waves. That's when I looked
around the parking lot and saw reason: the cars of the "PJ
Mafia" contingent: Go Go (1959 surfmobile) and Mr. Ding
(driving a peepmobile). Go Go and I drove to SS to continue the
session while Mr. Ding had to go to work (Darn) . . .
Feb. 1st and 2nd
should be rideable. Jerry was the only one out at SS initially.
|
01/25/02
(posted 01/31/02) |
I thought we
may have something today. I left here early this morning. When I get to
the H, solid chest-shoulder, with head high sets. Very strong wind, but
the swell was big enough and had juice. Did my 3 hr thing. About 1:00
swell subsided, not much, but more importantly the wind subsided.
Cleaned up very nicely, put back on my already wet, wet suit (ouch), did
2 more hours. Very un-like me in the winter. I do not like putting on a
wet wet suit, but just couldn't leave. -Fred
|
01/24/02
Thursday |
Small out there today, dense
fog but I'm gonna checkitout anyway.
3:30 PM update: At times it
was head high but conditions varied greatly depending upon where you
were and whether you were in the wind or not. Surfed 3 different
breaks in 4 hours +. Caught a shoulder high for the longest single
ride of the winter today. Fun session!
|
01/21/02
Monday |
Chest high sets - nice and
fairly clean and glassy until just before noon time when the wind
started up from the SW and chopped things out. It was a local_fest at
the haus with Jay, Mike, Mike, Josh and Fred. Got in about 2 1/2 hours
in the water today. Air temp. in the upper 30's (F) and
raining. The summer like crowd of yesterday was gone today,
fortunately . . . love that cold rain!
|
01/20/02
Sunday |
Surf - waist to head high
this afternoon. Walked the beach with friends but didn't have my
gear with me. Light breeze was not a factor and the sun was
shining. Overnight snow storm has turned RI into a winter
wonderland!
|
01/14/02
(posted 01/15AM) |
5 hours and 10 minutes of
surf, surf, and surf! 3 different breaks - waist to shoulder with
some bigger stuff. Just the winter crowd now. Wind dropped
to a semi glass. Just Edgar and I out early before others arrived.
Had some time where I was the only one out at 2 of the 3 breaks.
Long rides at one break. Did the "one thousand one, one
thousand two . . " count thing and got to "one thousand
thirty" on one ride. When things got (relatively) crowded I'd
head off in a new direction. Bone weary at the end and
dehydrated. Went to bed last night a little after 8:00
PM so that's why the update here is 12 hours late!
Two "Quote(s) of the day" from Jay:
"It oughta be illegal for someone as big as me to have a board
this long (11' Phillips with very little rocker)" and
"You can't claim to be a long boarder unless you've ridden
monahans on a double overhead day on a long board." Since
I've, er, sorta, maybe seen <not> Jay pulling a water skier behind
the Phillips so there could be some truth to what he says!
|
| 01/10/02 |
Aves were firing average
waist high today. About a dozen guys out. Modest West
wind. Good waves. 2 hours on the water.
|
| 01/08/02 |
One report of fast juice
today. I had an off water day!
|
| 01/07/02 |
Today's session was so good
that a short summary just won't do the job. Write up is located here.
Supersession article called "Waist High"
|
| 01/06/02 |
Raining at 9:00 PM; storm is
winding up. Forecast has gone back to NE winds so there should be
surf through Wednesday once the swell develops.
01/07 7AM: Forecast was for NE
winds; AM changed it again to NW. I either need a new sport or we need
to privatize the marine weather forecast industry and make it
accountable. There is a difference between 12' surf and 2'
surf (in my opinion).
01/07 7:20AM Wait_just_a_durned_minute_thar_podner.
Wazzat? Looks like a chest high? Oi! All is forgiven!
|
01/05/02
Saturday |
Little unadvertised special
today with waist high at the haus. Some chest high sets and, for
the most part, clean. Probably best in the morning. Got
there at 1:00PM and surfed until about a half hour before sunset in a
rapidly diminishing waves. About a dozen guys out at any one time
- Mike, Josh, Mike, Jeff, Bobby and several other regulars. It was good.
|
01/04/2002
Friday
10:00AM |
Exceptionally large surf is
forecast locally for January 8 time frame. Check out your
equipment now and make the needed adjustments ahead of time.
Jan 5th: Forecasters
have backed down from the original prediction. Winds now predicted
to be NW, not NE, which will make storm smaller and further out to
sea. Stay tuned as reality overcomes optimism!
|
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