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GOTTA |
GOOD |
TOO SOON TO TELL |
PROBABLY
CLUELESS |
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- 2004 Surf Reports - |
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You
may have surfed today but the experience isn't complete until you
find out how good it was by reading about it here. :-) |
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| Date | Comments: |
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12.27.04 Monday PM |
Finished the snow removal and headed to the water around 11:30. Wind was blowing hard but the surf was going off. Decisions, decisions. The Heavy_Rubba_Kooka_Express was committed so it was a case of getting dressed and getting wet for about 3 hours. NW wind was tough but it slowed down for a while in mid-afternoon so overall the session was pretty good. At times the waves were like an automatic weapon - and other times it slowed down. There was a really frigid blast of sustained wind at the end so it was back to shore. | ||||||
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12.27.04 Monday 7:00 AM |
Buoys are 13.5' at 13 seconds (Great Googliemooglie - pass me my heart meds, wife!), wind NW 25-31k (unfavorable), current temperature is 19 (F) (normal). It's all theory when there is a foot of snow in your driveway. Time to fire up the snow blower in Rhode Island. Hope I've got some gasoline somewhere to run it with! Winter is officially here my friends. | ||||||
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12.24.04 Friday PM |
Everything was going off this morning even though the wind was fairly strong early. Nice head high and fast! Surfed for about 3 hours at a quieter break. Swell was dropping rapidly at the end. | ||||||
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12.23.04 Thursday AM
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Surfed twice recently - once in some nice chest
high and yesterday in barely knee high! It's almost Christmas time
so we wish
you a very
Merry Christmas
as those of us who are Christian remember, with gratitude, the Living
God who became a baby over 2,000 years ago so we might be reconciled to
God.
I
hope to be on the road tomorrow morning!
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12.11.04 Saturday PM Swell |
Everything was going off today and occasional sets were "way up there". A classic "all points, reefs and breaks" swell advisory. Wind quieted down, went SW and there were a lot of bodies off there, especially at the haus. Surfed 3 different breaks in 4 1/2 hours. Really tired at the end. Nice waves although many of them were thick so I saw quite a few misfires out there (guys missing the wave). Excellent session. Listened to Beethoven's Sixth Symphony on the radio while driving home. Don't do that too often but it worked. Thats-a-nice! | ||||||
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12.10.04 Friday 10:30 AM |
Did the dawn patrol yesterday (Thursday) morning
and got in the water at sun rise. Much smaller than the previous
afternoon - knee to waist but it was fun to be out there. Had the
place to myself. The sky was beautiful before sun rise, nice red and
orange colors. Yesterday was a very busy day so the update here is
posted this morning. Looks like surf for the next several days. I just might catch the incoming tide a couple of hours from now. Water still isn't that cold but it is cooling down <upper 40's (F)>. |
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12.02.04 Thursday |
Nice wind swell at the haus. Waves were
waist to shoulder with an occasional bigger set. Water is cooling
down now but saw one guy out there without a hood. Had a couple of
nice ones in the 3 hour session. Surfed 2 breaks: Went way outside
on one to make the drop and see a solid wall down the line. On a
different wave took off behind the peak and dropped down through the
belly of the wave. It came down but didn't git me! It's
often when you think you've made a mistake that you are actually are in
the right place. Then, there are the times you know you messed up
big time! As the morning went on the waves got less frequent.
Good session. PS: Finally saw the movie "The Incredibles" last night. Good flick. At Showcase Cinemas in Warwick I purchased 1 small soda and a small lunch bag sized (stale) popcorn. The cost? $8.92. I will never visit their concession stand again. Posted 12.04.04 AM |
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11.26.04 Friday |
Nice
waves coming in Friday at a favorite winter break. Lots of cars so
I did a quick look and then got dressed. Surfed maybe 2 1/2 hours
- right into semi-darkness in mostly shoulder hi. As the sun set
the sky turned orange and purple. The full moon came up out of the
purple dusk on the NE horizon, the breeze dropped and the water turned
to a semi-glass. Some times the sun set is just awesome and this
was one of those nights. It took a while to relearn how to surf properly - a month away degrades the skills. Had one super takeoff with a nice drop and a tight wall so it was good to be back. The winter season has begun. Posted 11.28.04 AM |
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11.22.04 Monday PM |
Haven't been in the water since 10.23.04 and web updates here have equally infrequent. Lot of personal projects being finished up with the beginning of the colder weather upon us. New ones on the horizon include this web site and getting back in the water now that it has cooled down to a respectable temperature! Looks like some surf Wednesday and afterwards for a few days so hope to get wet real soon now. I've heard lots of reports about surf for the last month including one overhead day at a new secret break I've never surfed at but I can say nothing more! The new roof here at home has no apparent leaks so that is a definitely a "bonus" situation! | ||||||
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10.30.04 Saturday PM |
This has
been quite a week for surf but I missed almost all of it. About 10
squares left to go on a 30 square roof and the vertical cedar shingle
siding is all done. I did ride last Sunday (10.24) afternoon for several
hours in some nice peaks with a few other locals at a secret break. Wednesday (10.27) the surf looked awesome but I got on the roof instead and started removing asphalt shingles. With all the personal work this site went un_updated but what can I say? Hope to be back in the water in about a week or so and then have some live updates. Last Sunday I wore gloves for the first time this fall. |
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10.23.04 Saturday PM |
New
larger hard drive installed and we're back up and running after about 10
days of server failure. Had 2 sessions that were excellent the
last 2 weeks but that is history! Today was goin' off at 2 breaks in Rhode Island and Dr. Surf was fortunate to be at one of those breaks! Sets were excellent. There were a lot of bodies out there and the water is still fairly warm. Almost time for boots and gloves - especially with the constant wind. Had one nice wave in the 3 hour session with a half stroke and drop. Perfect. I think there are a whole lot of stoked and tired bodies locally tonight. Did you git some today? |
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10.11.04 Monday 6:40 AM |
Nice little waves yesterday - solid knee high with an occasional waist high. Got wet for an hour and a half in the afternoon. Had it all to myself and then one other showed up. Soon there were 3 of us then 4, 5, 6. A bus arrived with several more but by then I was back on the road goin' home. It was good to get wet even if it was small. | ||||||
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09.30.04 Thursday 1:00 PM |
All the
traffic lights were green as we did the South dawn patrol this morning -
in the water right at sun-up and out there for about 3 1/2 hours. Nice
clean chest-hi sets - lefts and had the place to myself for well over an
hour. Rode a couple right to the rock pile and had clean exits - a
rare thing. That low sun behind the upper wave face was beautiful.
Sunny, glassy water and clear sky with the sets jacking up nicely on
takeoff. Had a few behind the peak starts that didn't close.
Perfect morning. Reality has returned as I begin stripping another section of roof shingles and rebuild the roof. Can't complain: the warrantee was for 25 years and it has been almost that much time since I originally built the roof. |
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09.25.04 Saturday 7:15 AM |
Service
provider's server was down yesterday so not possible to publish an
update yesterday morning. I notice that a certain surf cam is also
down this morning! A
conspiracy? Yesterday was big! Sets were easily one and a half and the waves were a short boarders delight - quite fast. Surfed a total of 6 hours at 3 different breaks. Had one wave that I regretted taking but lived to write about it here. It was close to a double up that was a little too fast to stay ahead of. At the last I was able to drop down and get away from the jaws of death. Sometimes we come face to face with our limitations and it's a humbling experience. The marine forecast yesterday was completely wrong; it said 2-4'. Actual was 2-4 meters. Surf varied widely in size - from average waist to average head high plus. You picked a comfort zone and surfed that break. Excellent Hurricane Jeanne swell. |
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09.24.04 FridayAM |
On the road on another Sunny picture perfect Rhode Island day. | ||||||
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09.19.04 Sunday PM |
Mostly waist high today with a fairly strong Northerly wind. We checked it out but did not get wet. Opted instead for a little lunch and watching some of the Red Sox / Yankees game on TV. Going flat again for a few days. | ||||||
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09.18.04 Saturday noon  |
It's Raining in Rhode Island right now. Remains of a portion of hurricane Ivan are in the 'hood. Drove around yesterday and it was knee to thigh high but unrideable. With the wind today there just might be some juice if you know where to go. I'm processing Jalapeños right now in the kitchen - plan to spice up my favorite "Old El Paso" Salsa with some fresh peppers. Let it sit a few days and it's ready. It's just right when you can sense the hair follicles individually on top of your head and there is a modest sweat on the forehead but the mouth is not burned. A "4" heat rating (out of 10) is about right for me - no Habaneras thank you! Right now my forehead and cheeks are sweating - time to bottle it up! Whew! ¡Caliente! | ||||||
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09.10.04 Friday |
Nice little waves coming in today and there were a lot of people in the water. Eventually found a little shoulder high right that was mostly unattended so stayed out there about 4 hours. It was basically an inconsistent wind swell but there were some nice little drops if you were at the right place at the right time! I'm looking forward to the water cooling off and the summer crowds vanishing. | ||||||
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09.04.04 Saturday #2 consecutive Supersession |
6 hours wet today in 2
sessions. Body is getting tired and the sun burn has a sun burn.
Drove to the Haus about 1:30 PM - what a Zoo! Upper, lower lots
filled and both sides of the road on the way. Not a local in sight. Far
as I can tell they're all at secondary or out of the way breaks.
Shot some film but it won't get here tonight! A few entertaining
wipeouts and a lot of decent sized waves. I found a nice left today that was relatively uncrowded so got in another supersession. More of a community thing out there today than yesterday. |
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09.03.04 Friday Stoked |
AM - Looks good for the
indefinite future. The email is increasing. I'm decreasing
because I'm "on the road". PM update - got the stoke working tonight. About 7 total hours wet today in morning and afternoon sessions. Lots of kids and novices out there so be careful. Chest to solid 1 1/2 today with no end in sight. Close my eyes and I see the horizon bending. Cool. |
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09.01.04 Wednesday PM |
In the water at 7:00 AM and
no one else out there. Surfed a dying swell that was mostly waist
high. Had one beeoooteous wave that was a solid 1 1/2 wedge with a
great drop and a solid but fairly short wall. 1 solid wave in 4
1/2 hours! Saw Bobby hanging out on the bank and a few locals in
the water but basically it was an uncrowded session. Got the sun
burn working tonight. For a
Hurricane Frances report from (current) ground zero go to: |
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08.31.04 Tuesday PM |
At 6:30 AM it was goin' off and there was not a single solitary car at a certain parking lot! I had the place to myself. Went looking at 2 other breaks and chose the best one. Only Dave out there at first and we had it to ourselves for maybe 20 minutes. Surfed an hour and a half before having to leave to go to work. Nice waves and decent drops despite the unusually high water. No wind so we were into a glassitation situation for a while. Excellent but short early morning session. | ||||||
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08.30.04 Monday 5:00 PM |
Water is flat (ankle high) as of 3:00 PM. Several guys out there at 2 different breaks but I couldn't figure out why. Nothing happening yet, not even boat wakes. | ||||||
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08.28.04 Saturday 12:00 Noon |
Looks like small waves for
the next several days. I see the "S...L" word in the local marine
weather. Think it's time for a "drive by" this afternoon as the
early signs of surf withdrawal are upon me. Even Fred is making
"surf sounds" after being retired for over a year. 4:00 PM - water is flat, flat, flat. 8:00 PM - Hurricane Francis is a big storm! Don't want to be in the way of that one when it goes ashore. Looks certain to be a Category 5 in a short time and it's currently 690 miles EAST of the Leeward Islands? Look out.  |
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08.14.04 Saturday 8:00 PM |
Had an AM and a PM session today totaling 6 hours as the remnants of tropical storm Bonnie gave up some waves. Conditions were generally challenging as conditions were inconsistent - waves here, waves there. There were some nice sets occasionally and the waves were jacking up suddenly so if you were at the right place at the right time the ride was excellent. Parking lot was completely full and you could have gotten a bunch of locals' autographs because most of them were there. Wolfman Jack got what he called a "Smoking" ride as the hoots from the overlook agreed. Got a few pictures today and will put them up "soon". | ||||||
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08.09.04 Monday 5:15 PM |
Haus had some nice little waist high this afternoon so I went out for maybe 3 hours on a sunny day. Not many out there but those who were enjoyed a little unannounced summer special. | ||||||
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08.04.04 Wednesday 10:25 PM |
Surfed 2 breaks this afternoon for maybe 4 hours so a little tired tonight. Set waves were solid head high and there were a whole lot of bodies out there, some more skilled than others . . . It wasn't generally that clean but it was good. Had a few nice walls and the usual "sun burned" stoke going tonight. Lots of locals and a few thousand others out there today. Time to crash now! | ||||||
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08.04.04 Wednesday 6:15 AM |
Storm is going a little too
far south of us and forward speed is picking up so the effect will be
generally underwhelming. Best part of the swell will be during
darkness tonight so if you're thinking of taking the day off today I'd
save your vacation time for another surf event that is more promising. I
notice a complete failure of a particular buoy a few days ago so someone
has been messing around out there with the equipment.
Nevertheless, even 3' at 13 seconds elsewhere right now as I write, this
means there will be some waves. I'll be on the road during the next 72 hours but I'm bringing a book with me to read! |
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08.02.04 Monday 4:30 PM |
Lots of speculation and ground noise in the usual watering holes on the 'Net about waves the next few days. Positives: high tide at mid-week is mid-day so you can pick your time; forecast has changed from S to a SE swell which should allow everyone a chance to play. So, at the moment, we're watching and waiting. | ||||||
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07.29.04 Thursday 3:45 PM Good double session |
Looked at Toonses early but it was small. Went over to the haus where things were a little bigger. No wind. Both the tide and the swell were dropping but there were still some nice sets coming in from time to time. Great little session this morning - got out of the water at noon after about 3 hours. I'm kinda sun burnt right now but the stoke is back in the soul! Great googliemooglie. 6 hours in the surf in the last 24 is O'tay! Hope you're stoked too. | ||||||
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07.28.04 Wednesday (Posted 07.29) |
Surfed the incoming afternoon shift at Toonses in some nice waves. Basic south swell working with sets at least head high. Average about chest hi. Got in maybe 3 hours worth. Lots of bodies out there and saw a few locals that had been mission from the scene for awhile. Nice light off shore breeze. | ||||||
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07.20.04 Tuesday PM |
Same situation as yesterday but different break: Head high+ set about every 5 minutes and waist high on the inside. Sunny day and onshore breeze. Nice mid-summer surf session in warm water. Waves were bigger at another break but today I just opted for a lay back and easy cruising session. Fun. | ||||||
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07.19.04 Monday PM |
Nice waves in a 2 hour session. Tons of tourists eating up all the parking spaces so the line up was light considering the time of year and the fact it was glassy. The sets had some drop to them but, for the most part, it was waist high down the line. Very nice little session. Dr. Surf scores along with about 20 others. Life is good. | ||||||
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07.17.04 Saturday AM |
It's been going off since
Wednesday and looks to get bigger again soon. Got in 2 hours
yesterday in an abbreviated session - windy and uneven wind swell but
definitely rideable on the set waves. There are a lot of bodies
out there now, some of them learning. I'm seeing a fair amount of
dropping in right now - mainly due to inexperience when you simply
assume that no one could have taken
off deeper than you did. Check out these 2 simple tips: 1. If you're taking off on a right then look left <on a left, look right> to see if anyone is already there, up and riding - especially if you're down the line from the lead surfers. If there is it's not your wave; it's theirs. 2. If someone is heading right at you then duck dive to get away. Protect yourself - the surfer may not be skilled, the wave may limit temporarily his ability to turn, etc. Whatever. These 2 simple things will go a long way towards improving everyone's session and minimize the chance for injuries. Thanks! End of rant.  |
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07.14.04 Wednesday PM Excellente session ! |
There was a bit of
difficulty here at Surf
Central
this morning - a head high swell was working out there and we did not
make any timely mention of it here. Bottom line: we didn't
want to be responsible for rush hour type traffic heading for Rhode
Island beaches so we did the honorable thing: Dr. Surf and friends
nailed down 5 solid continuous hours in clean head high (1 and a half
high sets) this morning with a classic light offshore breeze. If
you were working this morning we salute you with
three cheers for keeping the economy on a solid upturn and thus
insuring the re-election of Dubya and, also, for making the size of the
lineup out there barely manageable! Some waist high last night in a separate 2 hour session. |
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07.06.04 Tuesday AM |
Had a 3 hour session in
solid knee high on June 30th with no one else out there. So,
surfed only 2 times in June. Bummer. Last night there was a
definite southerly swell (small) working but I didn't go out (at 6:30
PM). It looks to have been an unadvertised special. I've been focusing on other interests lately due to the flat water but the moment we get some waves the other interests will dematerialize and surf will again rule. If there are no updates here it means no waves. I did see that there was no 10' surf on the weekend (see 6.29 below - as expected). I only mention surf if there is real stuff going on, but, given that it's tourist season, if there are waves the announcement will definitely be low key! |
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06.29.04 Tuesday AM Commentary |
Flat the whole month (with
scattered reports of occasional knee hi). I wondered how some of
the surf sites that charge money to get their forecasts were making out;
how they were handling this lack of surf because it directly impacts
their bottom line. Last night I looked at one particular site
and saw they had predicted big 4th of July surf (10'). So, I
checked their prediction against a reliable long range forecast <deep intel> and the latter showed flat for the 4th. So, it appears, at
least for the moment, that if there is no surf then fabricate some.
Personally, I hope that (other) site is right - I need surf too - but
this will certainly be tested. Frankly, the longer we go without
waves the higher the probability some one will be right with a silly
forecast - given the law of averages. Hang in there people - there will eventually be waves but, when they come, it will be a new challenge: too many people out there! |
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06.09.04 Wednesday PM |
Hung out a while today but
there was no surf. It was almost big enough to ride but . . . no
way. Could really use some waves right about now. You too? Surfed a few days ago but it was really small so didn't update this report. |
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06.03.04 Wednesday Noon |
<Posted 06.03 AM> Nice little waves yesterday in late morning. Saw Bob and Josh out there. Mostly solid knee high but there was a rare ( 1 every 2 hours) shoulder hi. Warm sunny day and off shore wind. It was good to get wet. Today was a little unadvertised special . . . | ||||||
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05.24.04 Friday PM |
Nice little waves knee - chest hi out there. Rideable. 3 hours. Good to get wet. The waves that have been hanging out beyond Block Island finally came in for a short time. | ||||||
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05.24.04 Monday AM |
Got a phone call last night: the Cape was the place to be Sunday. Surf! Hoping Wednesday will bring waves. They're out there but not getting into shore. | ||||||
| 05.16.04 Sunday AM | Hung out at the haus yesterday afternoon but it was Flat. Short term advance forecasts are for more of the same. Those flying kites are doing fine however. | ||||||
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05.10.04 Monday PM |
The winter season is officially over. Water is above 50 (F) and locals parking spots are in jeopardy from touristas. Who knows, maybe we'll even see some Jimmy Dawgs at his usual lunchtime location? Now that would be OK! | ||||||
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05.03.04 Monday (Posted 05.04 AM) |
Nice evening swell last night. When I first arrived I saw one break with no one out there. Got dressed immediately. Soon there were lots of locals out there late but had it all to myself for a short time. There was plenty to share - no one went hungry. Nice session. Another of those unadvertised specials. The predicted South wind did not happen - it was glassy. Excellent. | ||||||
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04.29.04 AM |
Surfed the haus yesterday from noon to 3:30
PM in some waist high with an occasional bigger one. To the man (and woman) who broke into my van and stole credit cards, cash and my portable computer yesterday (Wednesday - about 2:00 PM): I had 3 years of research on that computer that is irreplaceable and of no value to you. Would you consider returning the computer to me? You watched me surfing while you went through my van and you know how to find me. At worst, would you burn a CD containing the contents of the folder called "work" and mail the CD anonymously to PO Box 153, Hopkinton, RI 02833? No questions asked. I forgive you. |
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04.24.04 Saturday PM |
Waves were really small but I needed to get wet. Surfed maybe an hour and a half in solid knee high. The wind switch from SW to NW came suddenly and with an strong gust. Pretty awesome what God can do when He decides it's time for a change! | ||||||
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04.22.04 Thursday AM |
Water temperature
is now 45 degrees (F). It's time for the annual "norubbah_kook"
contest. If you spot a surfer out in the water locally with a board,
bathing suit and no other gear: no wet suit, gloves, boots, hood let me
know the date, place, and particulars and I'll put the first responder's
message up on the fan mail page. Winner gets a free "that's my wave" call out there in the line up. Right. |
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04.22.04 Thursday AM |
Caught some small waist high stuff yesterday for about an hour at mid-day. An on shore wind shift ended the session. There were a few nice waves however. I had the place mostly to myself. The overnight forecast changed from 3-6 to 2-4 and wind is now unfavorable this AM. Might be worth keeping an eye on things this afternoon as wind goes SW . . . just in case . . . | ||||||
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04.20.04 Tuesday AM |
There have been no updates here for a while, despite sporadic surf, because I've been sick. There were a couple of days where there was decent surf but I was in bed and not even able to update this web site. That is beginning to change now and I'm checking the intel once again. For example today: looks like some wrap around today due to the wind. | ||||||
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04.10.04 Saturday PM |
The haus had consistent waist high working in the late morning so I went out for a few hours. A rare bigger one every now and then. One of those unadvertised specials that happen every now and then! | ||||||
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04.02.04 Friday |
Posted 4.3 AM: 3 1/2 hour afternoon session with it going off for a short time in the middle of the session. Had a fun time with just a few boards out there. This was the 4th time I've been out in the last 5 days and the surf (and rain) has been consistent for the last week. Wind going back to NW for the next few days which should limit action for the short term. Have seen several boats on trailers recently on the highway so the fishing crowd is waking up from winter slumber. Bass should be around soon. The winter surf season begins to wind down. | ||||||
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04.01.04 Thursday excellent session |
It was flat, flat, flat for almost an hour. I looked around to see a board heading out to where I was. It was Ted. There was just the two of us out there. Just as I started to say "what are you doing out here. It's FLAT!" I looked to the horizon and sets started coming in. Immediately the place started going off. I thought "Hey, you can surf with me anytime!" but we were too busy nailing lefts and rights. It was breaking close to shore but it was great. I got more rides in an hour than I got in the last 2 days. A few nice sets came through too. Jacking up and fast down the line. I'm kinda stoked tonight after 4 hours on the water. | ||||||
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03.31.04 Wednesday Optical contusions |
Posted 4.1 AM: Surfed about 3 hours in continuing small but rideable knee to waist with an occasional close out. When you least expected it (about once an hour) there was a wave coming down on your head! The heavy rain and light fog made it difficult to see. I suppose I would summarize the session as "optical contusions" but, nevertheless, fun. Conditions should continue through Friday and then it looks like it will be going flat again. I'm on the road today. | ||||||
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03.29.04 Monday PM |
It was good
at a certain break yesterday morning. Small sets at the ranch.
Surfed until after the sun went down. Saw Dave and Josh out
there. Quote of the month (speaking about a week and a half ago):
I surfed for 5 straight days. I feel great" - Dave. There are some people learning how to surf out there so it looks like the winter season is just about over. |
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03.20.04 Saturday PM |
Goin' off this morning. Sunny, glass, mostly chest hi but some bigger sets. Got a lot smaller after noon time as the easterly swell diminished. Lot of guys out there but everything was cool. Saw Victor in the line up and Mike on shore. Nice little 3 hour session. Water was quite cold if you got caught inside! Heard that March 11th was big but I wasn't here to ride it. | ||||||
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03.19.04 Friday PM |
Been in Guatemala on a mission trip but back now. Did the drive around today at 2:00 PM: a certain parking lot was almost full with a lot of guys out there. Chest high but closing out. Everything was fast: short boardable for the most part. Good to be back and time to crank up this web site after my first 2 weeks away in almost 6 years. | ||||||
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03.04.04 Wednesday PM |
Caught some small stuff at the haus on an outgoing tide. Good to get wet. Going on a 2 week road trip so there will be no updates during that time. Air temp is definitely on the upswing and a nice sunny day with light offshore breeze. Spring will be here soon. | ||||||
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02.19.04 Thursday PM |
Early
morning intel showed 7.5' and 11 seconds but strong winds. I drove to my
spot and saw a flag hanging straight down (no wind!) near the break.
I got stoked: possible head high glass! However the water was
nearly flat. FLAT??? Go figure . . . Every few minutes there was a little thigh hi so I got wet. It was basically clean knee hi fun stress free surfing with a light offshore breeze. Dave surfed with me and we caught a few. I stayed out around 3 hours. It was good to get some exercise. |
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02.07.04 Saturday All points, reefs and breaks firing today |
Left home at
6:25 AM and went over to Little Compton to check out the RISK mid-winter
gathering of about 40 kayak surfers. Sven and Mike organized a
first class event: there were event T-shirts, manufacturer's reps.,
food, raffles, giveaways and waves too! Glad all these guys don't
show up at a break all at one time on a regular basis! Saw 1 car
from Virginia. Head high closing out early on. Drove over to the West Bay around 10AM and headed to my favorite surf break. It was basically sets every few minutes on the outside and consistent waves on the inside. I headed outside. Wet for almost 3 hours surfing my way back into shape. Not intimidated like on 02.04. Had a couple of nice deep drops and I was in good company. I like watching the others riding in while I'm paddling back out. A really excellent session with the biggest waves at P's. Big thick walls. The key today was over committing to the drop zone. If you hung back or to the side: you didn't ride, Clyde! Stoke working tonight. |
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02.06.04 Friday |
I think the waves will be getting into shore tomorrow. We'll see if Dr. Surf is right or if the professionals at NOAA (as of 3:15 AM) are right. And you, my loyal surfing Buddies, are the jury! Oi Veh, the pressure is on! | ||||||
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02.04.04 Wednesday |
It was goin'
off this morning! FINALLY, some surf.
Stayed out only a little over 2
hours - man, I'm out of shape! At first the waves looked huge . .
. it's been a while. After about an hour my heart rate slowed
down, caught a few waves and it was business as usual. Saw Sven
catch 1 nice wave - deep, aggressive, good cuts. Saw "Fly on the
wall" Russ catch a screamer - it walled up perfectly and he was in the
right place at the right time. A Good February session: air temp.
around 40(F), sunny and cranking. |
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01.31.04 Saturday |
Well, the streak is over. For the first January since I started surfing I didn't get wet one time in January. Hung out today hoping the tide switch would bring some solid knee high but it didn't. Flat as a lake out there right now. This has been one flat month with howling west and NW winds. There was some chest high on January 19th but I was working that day. Oh well, on to February we go . . . | ||||||
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01.28.04 Wednesday |
All points,
reefs and breaks are completely flat. Did the long drive around
this morning at 8:00 AM. Saw 3 boards out at Tunces charging this
way and that way. It was like that summer feeding frenzy you
sometimes see with one exception: it was flat! Hard to believe that with that Nor'Easterner we would have a light off shore breeze this AM but no waves . . . Sad but true. Time to crank up the snow blower. Dr. Surf scores . . . Not. |
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01.24.04 Saturday AM |
Yesterday (Friday) checked the water at 7:15 AM. Knee hi and not really rideable. Came back at 1:00 PM and it was flat. I have not surfed yet in the month of January, 2004. That has not happened before. I'm hoping for waves "soon". Need 2 consecutive days worth: 1 to remember how to surf; the second to have fun! | ||||||
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01.21.04 Wednesday |
This is the longest dry spell I've ever experienced in January. There have been some surf opportunities (especially last Monday) and some "wrap around" surf off of that west wind but I couldn't be there. I hope to get wet before the weekend is over. Severe surf deprivation going on here . . . | ||||||
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01.16.04 Friday |
Offshore
waves aren't getting in due to us. Forecast changed overnight to
continued strong wind off shore. Wednesday's optimism is fading
fast. Nevertheless we remain in the "watching and waiting" mode.
5:00 AM it was -10
degrees
(F) and 30K winds.
High school and elementary school was cancelled locally for today . . . I don't think one could surf in this weather due to immediate ice buildup on your suit. RI is surfing impaired at the moment but the sun is arising! |
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01.14.04 Wednesday |
Possible
waves between Friday and Saturday. The wind is unfavorable but
I've got that uneasy gut feeling working that there may be a window of
opportunity. As always, time will tell whether this is true or
only the product of severe surf withdrawal syndrome It will be very cold so be careful my friends. 01.15.04 Washed the vehicle at 1:00 PM. It was encrusted with salt from the roads. Hot water turned to icy slush by the time it got down to the bottom of the car doors. It's cold out there . . . vehicle ready. |
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01.08.04 Thursday |
We're in the usual annual lull around New Years - flat, cold and West to NW winds. It's always a challenge to (eventually) go from a spell of flat to double overhead in 30 degree water! We've had some hints of surf recently but the forecast has been wrong. Hang in there. | ||||||
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01.01.2004 Thursday |
Quiet out there at the moment. "All is calm. all is bright" as the Christmas carol Silent Night appropriately describes this sunny New Year's morning. Possible waves Saturday or Sunday? | ||||||
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12.25.03 Thursday  |
Nice little Christmas swell out there. At the ocean before dawn and waited for it to get light enough to see. Surfed maybe 2 1/2 hours. Back home now and almost time for Christmas dinner so this update is, of necessity, short! Merry Christmas everyone! | ||||||
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12.19.03 Friday |
Yesterday
there were waves but the wind was the thing that kept me out of the
water. Watched intermittently for a couple of hours while getting
caught up on my reading. Surfed today from 8 until noon in a dying Easterly swell. Every now and then a nice wave would come through. It was fun to drop deep into the wave shadow with that low winter sun out there now. 25 degrees (F) this AM so doubled up on the long underwear under the dry suit. It's starting to feel a lot like Christmas! Should be flat through the entire weekend . . . |
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12.12.03 Friday Supersession |
It was Goin' Off today! Surfed 9 AM to 1:15 PM at a secret break known only to half the locals in RI. Solid drops, intimidating at times, but classic Rhode Island Juice. I got the best barrel in several years on a nice coverup and I saw a bunch of guys Ridin' today. The session turned into a hoot fest and the stoke was everywhere. The secret was to overcommit to the drop that visually looked like a close out with you being the meat in the middle! The wind held the faces up so it worked . . . I saw Mike get a nice ride as well as several others. If you worked today, then, on behalf of all of us that had the day off - Thank You! I have put away the 3/2 for the winter and am using the dry suit. Water still isn't that cold yet (unless you get caught inside, that is) . . . | ||||||
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12.07.03 Sunday |
If you surfed this storm then you were a local. No one else could get out of their driveways! Here in the swamp we've got several feet of snow on the roof and surfing is not first on the "to do" list. Instead, it's getting the snow blower fired up so that we can get to the main road. Broke a shear pin (minor deal if you have a replacement handy) yesterday afternoon so that gets fixed first. Some times you can't see the waves because of the drifts . . . | ||||||
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12.03.03 Wednesday |
Marine
forecasts are all over the place for the weekend storm. Last night
it was 11-19'; today 6-11'. I'm happy with the forecast wave size
but it's the wind that will be the problem. Big wind on the way .
. . Watching and waiting in RI . . . |
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