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Sept. 11,
2001
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GOTTA |
GOOD CHANCE |
TOO SOON TO TELL |
PROBABLY
CLUELESS |
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- 2005 Surf Reports - |
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| You may have surfed today but the experience isn't complete until you find out how good it was by reading about it here. :-) |
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If you don't see any updates for a while then there's probably |
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| Date | Comments: Happy New Year !!! |
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12.30.05 AAM Friday |
There are waves but the strong NW wind is a disincentive. Gusts to 30K are not helpful! The dawn patrol doesn't roll this AM. | ||||||
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12.29.05 PM Thursday |
Completely flat at 1:00 PM. | ||||||
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12.28.05 AM Wednesday |
Little disturbance to the South heading this way. Might be some waves in a little while. | ||||||
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12.26.05 AM Monday |
Just might do a little drive by. Expectations are low but you never know. PM: Surf was rideable but took a while to clean up. Mostly waist to shoulder with a few exceptions. Good to get about 3 hours worth of exercise! Looks like it will go flat at least through the end of the week. | ||||||
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12.24.05 AM Saturday  |
It's just about flat. Surf Dawg had a restless night but it turned out to be indigestion, not approaching waves. Thinking of going to see that Narnia movie - heard it was excellent. May you have a very Merry Christmas - from our house to yours - may the peace of the Living God be in your hearts. | ||||||
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12.20.05 Wednesday noon |
I see that buoy 44017 is down. Some of you know that already, but did you know the scheduled repair date isn't until August 2006 ??? Contact the people at webmaster.ndbc@noaa.gov if you have an opinion on this. I did. | ||||||
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12.17.05 Saturday PM Excellent session |
It has been goin' off the last 2 days! Surfed 3 different breaks today in variable conditions ranging from 1 1/2 to chest hi - depending on the break. Some sets were "way up there" in a very nice RI swell on a nice sunny Saturday day. There are a whole lot of people who are stoked tonight! Water is starting to get cold now . . . Got some film but no time to post it now. Will get to it "soon". OK! - Pictures now here | ||||||
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12.14.05 Wednesday AM |
Flat at the moment. With a local temperature of 7degrees (F) this morning, we have officially transitioned over to "Heavy Rubbah" weather. Water is cooling down now but still not too bad from a RI point of view. Looks like we have some weather on the way in a few days. Do you think it's time to replace those "lobsta claw" gloves you have - the ones with a hole in them? You'll soon be glad you did! | ||||||
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12.11.05 Sunday PM |
Nice little "solid waist high" in the PM on the down side of yesterday's waves. In the water for a few hours as the wind steadily picked up from the west. Average surf but it was good to get wet. Kinda crowded today . . . Good to see a few of the RI locals out there. | ||||||
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12.01.05 Thursday PM |
Nice, super clean chest hi sets this morning in bee_ooo_tiful Rhode Island! 3 Hours. Backside was working - deep takeoff - under the small peak - nice little wall - threading the needle - Bro. Waves got smaller at the end. Cool session. Half dozen of us out there. Good vibes. Happy December! | ||||||
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11.29.05 Tuesday PM |
Did a drive by early afternoon but it wasn't rideable. One guy out and he gave up after 20 minutes. I'm going to have to have a talk with our new surf prognosticator. Tomorrow? Time will tell. | ||||||
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11:23.05 Wednesday PM |
Still goin' off today! Waited until the wind slacked off a bit and got in the water at 2:00PM and surfed into darkness. Sets at the Haus were fairly big and definitely head high down the line. I got smoked on one wave - rode one too far inside and got mashed by the follow on close out. Sinuses have been completely flushed; I'm "good to go" for 2006. Some excellent surf this afternoon. Air temp around 32 F. |
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Happy Thanksgiving everyone! |
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| 11.23.05 Wednesday AM | It was definitely "all points, reefs and breaks" firing yesterday. Big and meaty! Got in the water around 2:00 PM. It was a challenge to get out - had to really time the move. Maybe 15 guys out at this break with set waves "way up there". It was firing! About 3:45 the wind shifted strongly West and I got washed to the beach in a closeout like a piece of driftwood! Thus endith the session. Overall: Excellente! | ||||||
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11.21.05 Monday AM |
Coastal storm with a lot of wind coming. I'm getting that winter pit stop feeling - you know, double check all the gear and check the intel every 2 hours. If you're a fisherman you won't want to be offshore in 36 hours. | ||||||
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11.18.05 Friday PM |
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Not a
Rhode Island picture above but . . . "Surfers pose for a group picture
after breaking the world record for number of surfers riding the same
wave in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, Friday, Nov. 18, 2005. A group of 42
surfers made history by riding the same wave together."
Source:
Yahoo News |
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11.17.05 Thursday Noon |
Did the pre-dawn patrol this morning and hit the jackpot. Nice action out there. No wind early. Waves were staying open and clean; sets were head high+. Fair number of boards out there but they were spread out for the most part so it worked. Got a semi-stoke working right now. Tired after 3 hours wet. Great googliemooglie! | ||||||
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11.15.05 Tuesday AM |
Possibility of some limited action in 48 hours. I plan on switching over to the dry suit as the water temp is at the limit of 3/2 right now! | ||||||
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11.09.05 Wednesday AM |
Looks like a bit of a wind storm coming but the forecast currently indicates that the wind will go W 40K then NW 35K - and make it tough to ride. Time will tell. Meanwhile it is clouding over as the rain approaches. | ||||||
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11.04.05 Friday PM |
In the water early this morning at the haus. It was really small compared to the available intel. No wind and a rare waist hi. Nice little 3 hour session - no one else out for the second consecutive outing! I love it when the cam is down - no tourists! Water felt great - fairly warm and the sun was in the face so got a little November sun burn working. Life is good. | ||||||
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10.26.05 AM Wednesday |
Did the pre-dawn patrol deal and as I turned the corner at first light I couldn't believe my eyes. It was big and closing out! Went to a different location and got dressed. Made it out through the shore break - not an easy task! - and surfed for about 2 1/2 hours. It was intimidating; especially so since I had not been in big surf in 3 months. Eventually caught some decent waves. No one else was out. Wind picked up intensely in the late morning. <Posted 10.31> | ||||||
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10.25.05 Tuesday 1:39 PM |
I just noticed that there
were 152 of you hanging out at a certain web site with a cam that has
not been in operation for at least a month. On this basis alone
the "Local need for surf" on the front page has been reset to "Desperate".
I would like to say more at this time but I'm not going to . . .  |
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10.19.05 Wednesday |
5:00 AM
National Hurricane Center regarding Hurricane Wilma: "...AIR FORCE
RECONNAISSANCE PLANE REPORTED 884 MB...THE LOWEST MINIMUM PRESSURE EVER
MEASURED IN A HURRICANE IN THE ATLANTIC BASIN...THIS VALUE SHOULD BE
USED WITH CAUTION UNTIL CALIBRATED... Got wet at the haus yesterday in some average "shin hi"! It became rideable about 5:00 PM and I saw a couple of guys suiting up as I left. After 3 months out of the water it was a case of relearning the sport. It was great to get wet! |
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10.17.05 Monday Editorial |
Getting
caught up on the local news after 3 months away. It was huge this
last week - one of the best swells of the summer - but I missed it! As the temperature drops, order will be restored to the line up. Water in the 30's and air temps. in the 20's (or lower) is just the ticket for the recent overcrowding. Soon, bro. |
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07.02.05 Saturday PM |
Definitely smaller early this morning and a lot more bodies out there but it was a decent session in maybe waist hi down the line. Got in maybe 3 hours at several breaks. Swell was dying at the end. Over and Out. | ||||||
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07.01.05 Friday PM |
I looked at
the incoming wave and simply didn't believe it. It appeared to be
a head high wave but I hadn't seen one in so long that I simply didn't
believe my eyes. But . . . it was real! About 1:30 PM
the whole place lit off and it was overhead on the takeoff (if you were
in the right place) and maybe solid shoulder hi down the line (on the
sets). 5 Guys out there. In 2 hours it went from knee hi to big. Dr. Surf SCORES, yes indeed. Sun burnt, tired, Big Grin. Oi Veh! |
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06.27.05 Monday AM |
Well . . .
how to say this . . . This blog has been going on continuously
since around 1998 and I think I'm gonna take some time off from it.
Right now it looks like I'll take off this summer and early fall off to
do some other stuff. I'll be surfing from time to time -
especially once the 3/2's go back on in the late fall but at the moment
I need a vacation from this blog. Vacations are good. May God keep you all safe out there . . . see you around mid-October / when the crowds are gone / the summer houses are closed up / the parking lots are empty / and the surf is clean and head high. - Ray -
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06.16.05 Thursday AM |
There hasn't been a whole lot of surf news lately. I did notice there are 94 of you watching a certain cam so the surf index gets notched downward from "medium" to "desperate". I'm painting the house at the moment but the least rumor of an easterly swell getting closer than the south end of the Cape or even to Block Island would change my plans in a hurry. So far that hasn't happened . . . | ||||||
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06.10.05 Friday AM |
Looked at the water at the Town Beach yesterday and it was flat. Somehow managed to pull a muscle in my back last Saturday and have been out of action for the last 6 days. Looks at the moment like I'll be out of the water at least another week. Advance forecast shows fairly flat at the moment. That can change quickly as we all know! | ||||||
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06.04.05 Saturday PM |
Fairly small but definitely rideable at the haus. Waist hi on average and glassy and 2 of us had it all to ourselves for over an hour early this morning! Now that's a rare thing on a June weekend. Expect it to be gone by Sunday afternoon. | ||||||
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05.27.05 Friday AM |
Surfed for
several hours yesterday in mostly waist high with an occasional larger
set. Lot of people out there, somewhat crowded, waves were
infrequent. Rare session where I didn't really enjoy it all that
much. Only the second time in the water this month and that
is certainly a personal record for May! Had maybe two nice waves
but I'd rate this session as uninspiring due to the crowds. The
Cape was blocking the basic swell so it died off quickly. I don't see much happening in the way of waves for the Memorial Day weekend. The lows going by aren't wave producers. Most people I talk to think there will be waves. I'm right . . . but I hope they are.  |
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05.25.05 Wednesday AM |
Weather is currently wet, windy and more like April than the end of May.
At the moment it doesn't look like the waves will stay around that long
as the storm is to the east rather than the south. I'll be in
"road mode" the next 48 hours. As always, I'm optimistic
as air temps in the 40's
will keep the seasonal crowd far and few between. 1:30 PM Update: Looked at all the breaks - it was fairly small and very windy - not worth getting wet. My friend Dave thinks it will be waist high with light west winds Saturday. I think it will be flat Saturday unless we have another coastal storm. Time will tell! |
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05.20.05 Friday AM "Ain't that da way it is?" |
When out of the
forecast There arose such a clatter I grabbed my board and said What’s da mattah? |
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That 1
foot forecast |
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I should
have known |
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05.18.05 Wednesday AM |
The winter
surfing season is officially over. Flat for as far forward as I
can see. Forget it. Guilt trip time: "Have you changed the
oil in your lawn mower?" "School finals are almost here!"
"Has that summer job materialized?" He, he, he . . . I see a storm approaching Guatemala at the moment but that is about it my friends. |
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05.16.05 Monday AM |
Looks flat for a while. Forecast looks more like mid-summer than May! | ||||||
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05.12.05 Thursday Noon |
Headed down to North Carolina for 9 days and missed the storm last weekend. Back on line now and the short term outlook is flat. Gettin' surf fever - not much water time this month! | ||||||
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05.01.05 Sunday PM |
Nice little
3 hour session at the haus this afternoon. Waves were chest hi
down the line and the typical ride was short but - hey mon, it's MAY!
Finally. The winter season is officially over even though the water is
still fairly cold. I'll be on the road for a week. Updates afterwards. |
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04.28.05 Thursday noon Excellente! |
It was goin' off this morning at sun up !!! Excellent 3 hour session nice drops - good down the line - nice walls. Light off shore breeze early. The early birds got the rewards this AM. Did I mention it was great? If you were working this morning - thanks! Purrrrfect. Quite a few rubberlegs out there as guys get back into the water and line up after a winter off. | ||||||
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04.27.05 Wednesday 4:39 PM |
Interesting
. . . I was asked in a local "newsgroup" by my friend S. where I would
get my surf forecasts from if I couldn't access NOAA (or surf cams or
whatever). I'm amazed by that question - as if we couldn't go
surfing unless NOAA or whatever existed. NOAA's wave height
forecasts are dead wrong 40% of the time anyway in terms of predicting
rideable surf so I ignore them a lot of the time except in combination
with other intel. Well, I'd probably do what I always have done: rely on 12 years direct experience dealing with tides, storm tracks, wind direction and a few secret factors which I cannot divulge. Tricks of the trade - sorry. Even with all that available information I sometimes guess wrong - like this afternoon - turned out the waves weren't rideable. But then there's tomorrow morning at dawn. Yo. |
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04.24.05 Sunday PM |
It was goin' off in the afternoon! Big sets but not very clean. Tried to surf one break but without success then went in and drove to another. As the afternoon went on the water cleaned up - occasional sets were very big and hard to estimate but I put the takeoff at double overhead. Caught a couple of sets - the drop was steep and had that down, down, down feeling! Felt like I was hanging out in the pit and a second away from being trashed but if you guessed right the rewards were there! Dead tired at the end - 4 hours later. El stoke-o. | ||||||
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04.21.05 Thursday AM |
Drove down to the water last night but it was flat. Still, it was the first 80 degree day of the year! The water continues flat - probably until Sunday. The forecasts of 3-5' this week by NOAA-Boston were definitely hyperbole (love that Webster's Unabridged Dictionary)! | ||||||
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04.16.05 Saturday Posted04.17 |
Surfed 3 1/2 hours in some occasionally nice chest high sets. Today (04.17) it was a lot bigger but I didn't make it out today. If you grabbed some of that 12 second wave period stuff today you are de man! | ||||||
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04.09.05 Saturday |
Nice little
unadvertised waist high Saturday but the wind eventually went east and
made a cross chop. There were some occasional bigger sets.
Out there about 2 hours. Assisted with a kite surfer "rescue" but not a big deal. Looks like he crashed and the lines got all tangled up. Still, that water is cold and he was out there a while. <posted 04.10 PM> |
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04.03.05 Sunday PM |
It was goin' off this afternoon. Big sets were closing out just about everywhere except where we were! It wasn't clean at all and the wind was blowing - out there at most 2 hours and didn't ride a whole lot of waves. That said, if you were willing to risk it the rewards were definitely there. My best one was the last one - way up there and thick. 8 or 9 guys out there. Was it worth it? Yeah! | ||||||
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04.02.05 Saturday PM |
Seas are building now for tomorrow. | ||||||
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03.31.05 Thursday AM |
Looks good
again in the next 48 hours as another of the continuing coastal storms
come up off the coast. We've often had surf on Monday and Tuesday this
winter - it's good to see that pattern shift into the later portion of
the work week for those of you who never saw a Friday off from work and
didn't fail to love it. I won't be in the water today - I'm going to a "double negative" writing clinic. |
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03.30.05 Wednesday |
Time to announce the |
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03.30.05 Wednesday 4:25 PM |
Southside
was goin' off but the wind was pretty intense at 7:30 this morning.
Caught one nice drop and wall immediately but, 45 minutes afterwards,
headed in to try a break a little more sheltered from the wind.
The second break was mostly waist high and fun relaxed surfing. There were maybe 2 solid head high sets that went through and it is always a rush to catch a late drop rather than get buried inside! Met and talked with Dennis and Bubba who were riding some early spring waves today. Air temps around 50 near noon time but the water is about 39 (F) so full gear is still a necessity. In the water around 3 1/2 hours today. Good session but starting to get a little more crowded than usual. Spring is on the way and we're about 2 weeks away from seeing the guys who haven't been out in a while so enjoy these last 2 weeks of "winter" surfing while we've got 'um! |
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03.29.05 Tuesday 7:10 AM |
Whoa thar podner. 11.5' at 11 seconds right now ain't bad. But I gotta work today! Oi veh. Catch one for me but be careful out there cause that water sure is cold. | ||||||
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03.26.05 Saturday AM |
Drove to the haus yesterday around mid-day to look at the remains of yesterday's swell. Occasional waist+ and it looked like the early birds got the waves. A few more locals out there as some familiar faces came out to enjoy air temps. approaching 50(F). If it were summer I definitely would have gotten wet but decided to stay dry this day. Here are 3 pictures from yesterday: | ||||||
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03.24.05 Thursday PM |
Came back from a 2 week missionary trip in the mountains of Guatemala only to find some delightful occasional head high clean with a gentle offshore breeze of about 20+ knots. It was cold but excellente and a group of about of 8 of us did the right thing. Life is good at times ain't it? Out there about 2 1/2 hours. Got sunny and too good around noon time . . . | ||||||
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03.09.05 Thursday PM |
Intense storm last night with white-out conditions on the highway and single digit temperatures! I'll be on the road for a while so there will be no updates to this site for a short time. | ||||||
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03.02.05 Wednesday PM |
Nice clean head high sets and light off shore breeze early today. Excellent 3 hour session. Hubba hubba! Wind picked up in the late morning but the occasional set wave made it worthwhile. Classic winter wave machine working today. Advance forecast for the weekend looks to be flat flat and NW breeze. That's 3 strikes . . . | ||||||
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03.01.05 Tuesday AM |
It's hot today <14' @ 10 seconds> and I hope it's warm tamale cause I gotta go to work today! | ||||||
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02.21.05 Monday 6:15 PM Monday 9:15 AM |
6" of
snow and there were no other footprints ahead of mine as I walked to the
water. Nice little waves out there this afternoon. Sets were
shoulder Hi and there was an occasional nice little wall.
Excellent 2 hour session. If you stayed home today to shovel snow . . .
thank you very much on behalf of 5 locals who didn't! Snowing heavily right now in Rhode Island on this Washington's Birthday Holiday Monday. The buoys are starting to go off! Possibility of rideable stuff this afternoon so stay tuned. |
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02.16.05 Wednesday PM |
Got wet today for a couple of hours. Lot of people locally have the flu and I finally got it too. Nothing like a few hours of salt water in the air to clear the mind and the body! Conditions weren't that good but got in a few chest high sets. No one else out there. | ||||||
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02.03.05 Thursday PM |
Goin' off this morning. Wind seemed colder than usual even though it was above freezing. In the water a little less than 3 hours and caught a couple of good ones including a screamer on the last wave in. That one almost nailed me after a backside cross_under but I was just able to avoid that coooold water close out. It's good when you don't have to pay for that inadvertent deep takeoff! | ||||||
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02.02.05 Wednesday PM |
Nice little chest hi at tunces on a sunny above freezing day. Modest off shore breeze; 2 1/2 hour session. It was good to be out there mid-week. If you worked today thereby keeping the corporate wheels turning and the economy growing then this hoot's for you! | ||||||
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01.28.05 Friday 5:00 PM |
It was 7 degrees when I left the house at 9:00 AM. Had no plans to go on the road but, despite a marine forecast of 2', a buoy was 5.9' at 11 seconds. Checked several breaks but struck pay dirt with some solid chest hi at tunces. Downside was the sets were about every 3 minutes and it was cold out there podner! Surfed from about 10:15 til 12:30 and afterwards took a while to unfreeze my thumbs. It was worth it. Met Steve White out there - he was the guy who ran into the water 10 years ago in November in the rocks at the light in his street clothes on a double overhead day and held onto me when I had that dislocated shoulder. I still praise God for his heart to help me out, even after all this time. He's a pretty good surfer too! Thanks again Steve. | ||||||
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"January 2005" Posted 01.27.05 |
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Wind is about 30K, your eyes tear up from the sub-freezing wind temp. but if you've got what it takes the rewards are out there. He made this wave clean down the line. Without the wind it would have closed. | |||||
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01.23.05 Sunday 6:30 AM |
Seas are 17' at 11 seconds but, unfortunately, wind gusts are 54 K! We're in the middle of a whiteout blizzard here in RI with howling winds. We're simply hoping the power stays on because it's cold outside (13.3 degrees F). A ton of snow and a wind chill factor that is intense. This is one of those times where all the busyness of life simply stops and we understand fully that we are not in charge; someone much greater than ourselves is! | ||||||
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01.19.05 Wednesday AM |
Tore the neck gasket on my dry suit last Saturday so I'm out of the water until the replacement arrives <expected today> and I can get it installed. Been a while since I replaced one - had the "new" dry suit for 3 years and, like just about everything else, things wear out. Chest high the other day but equipment failure made me a spectator. It's one degree (F) outside right now so the equipment failure has coincided with the coldest temperatures of the winter. Probably good timing! | ||||||
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01.15.05 Saturday PM |
Left at 7:15 this AM - 25 degrees (F). Scouted several breaks but only South had any juice. Wind was N then NW then backed off so it was, at times, excellent. Nice wedges - some of them were way up there in the early AM. Medium long rides at times also with average set waves about shoulder high. Had the place to myself for an hour and we had about 6 locals at the height of activity. Surfed about 4 hours. It was good good good. Ran out of steam while waves were still coming in. Have a little sun burned face tonight. | ||||||
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01.12.05 Wednesday PM |
Wind went North and there was some little waist high coming in so got wet this afternoon for a few hours. Waves were small but it was good to be out there. Water is getting finally cold now. | ||||||
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01.08.08 Saturday PM |
Got an email from a previously unnamed ex-local named fast freddie "O" who claims to have been scouting a certain break 4 times recently but claims he never got wet. No eye witnesses to these alleged visitations have stepped forward so, for now, it's just rumor as far as we're concerned. We managed to plant a secret web cam on this infrequent contributor to RIRiders and here, for the first time, according to a closely held source, is his picture ---> |
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01.07.05 Friday PM |
Looked at the water for a while today - it was solid knee high with an occasional rideable but elected not to get dressed. Spotted deep undercover locals Wolfman and Russ eying the potential action but they didn't go out while I was there. Close but no cigar. The storm the day before went over land so the "wind swell" didn't last. Looks like the waves happened around midnight Thursday. <posted 01.08.05> | ||||||
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01.01.05 Saturday PM |
No better
way to start the new year off than a nice session in the ocean on New
Year's Day! About 3 hours in waist high while everyone else was
sleeping in at mid-day! Sunny and air temp in the 50's made for a
nice little session in the remains of an overnight wind swell. Some like
to go do the polar bear thing today - I much prefer the dry suit.
Lots of tourists at the haus today but very few riders in the water.
It was good to walk around barefoot in RI in January
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12.27.04 Monday PM |
Finished the snow removal and headed to the water around 11:30. Wind was blowing hard but the surf was going off. Decisions, decisions. The Heavy_Rubba_Kooka_Express was committed so it was a case of getting dressed and getting wet for about 3 hours. NW wind was tough but it slowed down for a while in mid-afternoon so overall the session was pretty good. At times the waves were like an automatic weapon - and other times it slowed down. There was a really frigid blast of sustained wind at the end so it was back to shore. | ||||||
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12.27.04 Monday 7:00 AM |
Buoys are 13.5' at 13 seconds (Great Googliemooglie - pass me my heart meds, wife!), wind NW 25-31k (unfavorable), current temperature is 19 (F) (normal). It's all theory when there is a foot of snow in your driveway. Time to fire up the snow blower in Rhode Island. Hope I've got some gasoline somewhere to run it with! Winter is officially here my friends. | ||||||
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12.24.04 Friday PM |
Everything was going off this morning even though the wind was fairly strong early. Nice head high and fast! Surfed for about 3 hours at a quieter break. Swell was dropping rapidly at the end. | ||||||
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12.23.04 Thursday AM
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Surfed twice recently - once in some nice chest
high and yesterday in barely knee high! It's almost Christmas time
so we wish
you a very
Merry Christmas
as those of us who are Christian remember, with gratitude, the Living
God who became a baby over 2,000 years ago so we might be reconciled to
God.
I
hope to be on the road tomorrow morning!
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12.11.04 Saturday PM Swell |
Everything was going off today and occasional sets were "way up there". A classic "all points, reefs and breaks" swell advisory. Wind quieted down, went SW and there were a lot of bodies off there, especially at the haus. Surfed 3 different breaks in 4 1/2 hours. Really tired at the end. Nice waves although many of them were thick so I saw quite a few misfires out there (guys missing the wave). Excellent session. Listened to Beethoven's Sixth Symphony on the radio while driving home. Don't do that too often but it worked. Thats-a-nice! | ||||||
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12.10.04 Friday 10:30 AM |
Did the dawn patrol yesterday (Thursday) morning
and got in the water at sun rise. Much smaller than the previous
afternoon - knee to waist but it was fun to be out there. Had the
place to myself. The sky was beautiful before sun rise, nice red and
orange colors. Yesterday was a very busy day so the update here is
posted this morning. Looks like surf for the next several days. I just might catch the incoming tide a couple of hours from now. Water still isn't that cold but it is cooling down <upper 40's (F)>. |
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12.02.04 Thursday |
Nice wind swell at the haus. Waves were
waist to shoulder with an occasional bigger set. Water is cooling
down now but saw one guy out there without a hood. Had a couple of
nice ones in the 3 hour session. Surfed 2 breaks: Went way outside
on one to make the drop and see a solid wall down the line. On a
different wave took off behind the peak and dropped down through the
belly of the wave. It came down but didn't git me! It's
often when you think you've made a mistake that you are actually are in
the right place. Then, there are the times you know you messed up
big time! As the morning went on the waves got less frequent.
Good session. PS: Finally saw the movie "The Incredibles" last night. Good flick. At Showcase Cinemas in Warwick I purchased 1 small soda and a small lunch bag sized (stale) popcorn. The cost? $8.92. I will never visit their concession stand again. Posted 12.04.04 AM |
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| Archived Surf Reports: 2004 2003 2002 2001 2000 1999-1998 | |||||||
